The Big SEKI Loop is a 150-mile circuit in the Sierra Nevada, one of the longest non-intersecting loops entirely within a National Park. The route circumnavigates the main Sierra Crest and Great Western Divide, linking the John Muir Trail, High Sierra Trail, and Rae Lakes Loop. It shares 58 miles with the JMT corridor (including four of the five major passes), but the remaining 90+ miles cross much quieter backcountry where you may hike for hours without seeing anyone.
This is a trail for experienced backpackers comfortable with sustained climbing at altitude: expect 2,000-4,000 feet of gain daily, occasionally more than 5,000 feet. The route tops out at 13,153 feet on Forester Pass, the highest point on the Pacific Crest Trail. Most fit hikers finish in 9-13 days without resupply, carrying all food from the start. Because it is a loop, you return to your starting trailhead at Roads End, so there are no shuttle logistics.
The extreme steepness of several sections and the consistently high elevation arguably make this harder than the JMT itself. Plan for altitude to cut your hiking speed in half, even with acclimatization.
Wilderness permits are required year-round for overnight trips. During quota season (late May through late September), permits cost $15 per group plus $5 per person. Permits become available exactly 6 months before your start date through Recreation.gov, with reservations opening at 7:00 AM Pacific Time.
For clockwise travel from Roads End, request a Copper Creek trailhead permit; for counterclockwise, request Bubbs Creek. Both can be competitive but are generally easier to get than equivalent JMT entry points.
Bear canisters are mandatory throughout the parks. You can rent one at the seasonal Roads End ranger station for $5/trip or bring an approved model. The ranger station operates during summer months, sells maps and hiking guides, and issues permits.
Campfire restrictions vary by elevation: fires are prohibited above 10,000 feet, at Rae Lakes, and in Paradise Valley. One-night camping limits apply at individual Rae Lakes and two-night limits in Paradise Valley. Camp at least 100 feet from lakes, streams, and trails.
Pets, wheeled vehicles, caching equipment, and shortcuts are prohibited. Pack out all trash including toilet paper. Do not build cairns, walls, or new fire rings.
Permits issued by Sequoia-Kings Canyon are valid for continuous travel through Sequoia National Forest, Sierra National Forest, Inyo National Forest, and Yosemite, subject to each agency's conditions.
Official permit information: https://www.nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/wilderness_permits.htm
July through September gives reliable access, though timing involves tradeoffs between conditions, bugs, and crowds.
Early July: Passes become snow-free in normal years, wildflowers peak, and water sources run high and reliable. Mosquitoes, however, are brutal; trip reports describe clouds thick enough to "blot out the sun." Creek crossings can be dangerous during snowmelt, particularly Palisade Creek and South Fork Kings River. Early starts are essential to cross swollen streams before afternoon melt raises the flow.
August: The sweet spot for most hikers. Mosquitoes decline, wildflowers fade but persist, snow has melted from all passes, and creek crossings moderate. Afternoon thunderstorms become more frequent with monsoonal moisture from the Gulf of California, so plan to cross high passes by noon to avoid lightning exposure.
September: Bug-free hiking with autumn colors replacing wildflowers. Water sources remain reliable early in the month, but some high-elevation sources may dry up later. Nights turn cold, potentially below freezing at high camps. Afternoon thunderstorms taper off, and permits become easier to get as crowds thin.
In heavy snow years, passes may remain buried until August. Check current conditions at https://www.nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/trailcond.htm before finalizing plans.
Water is abundant along the JMT and High Sierra Trail sections. The northern section from Roads End via Granite Pass to Palisade Creek has extended dry stretches, so carry 3+ liters and plan carefully. The final miles before passes often lack water late season or in dry years. Filter all water sources.
Unlike the JMT, the Big SEKI Loop has no on-trail resupply. Most lightweight backpackers complete the 150 miles in 7-12 days carrying all food, which means starting with 12-20 pounds of food depending on pace and diet.
Off-trail resupply options exist but add significant mileage:
Cedar Grove (Roads End area): The Cedar Grove visitor center accepts UPS packages (no USPS) through Labor Day. Ship to a hard-sided, critter-proof bucket. The facility is 6 miles from Roads End, essentially a half-day detour partway through the loop.
Onion Valley/Independence: Exit via Kearsarge Pass to reach the town of Independence (18 miles round trip from the JMT). This adds 1-2 days but gets you to grocery stores, restaurants, and motels. Pack services will deliver to Kearsarge Pass for approximately $400.
Most hikers carry all their food rather than lose time resupplying. Dial in your ounces-per-day precisely and choose calorie-dense foods to manage pack weight.
River Crossings: The most serious objective hazard. The South Fork Kings River bridge in Upper Paradise Valley was destroyed in the 2017 winter and has not been rebuilt. The Park Service warns this crossing can be unsafe early season and advises counterclockwise hikers to have a backtrack plan. Palisade Creek at Middle Fork Kings also lacks a bridge; scouting may reveal log crossings, but these shift unpredictably with storms. Dumbbell Creek is listed as "very dangerous" by the Park Service, with mid-thigh to waist-deep crossings even in early morning. All major crossings are easier in September after snowmelt subsides.
Altitude: Starting elevation is 5,050 feet at Roads End, and you immediately climb above 10,000 feet. The route crosses six passes above 11,000 feet, topping out at 13,153 feet on Forester Pass. Even with acclimatization, expect altitude to halve your hiking speed. Consider spending 2-3 nights at 8,000-9,000 feet before starting to reduce the risk of acute mountain sickness. Watch for headache, nausea, and dizziness, and descend if symptoms worsen.
Lightning: Afternoon thunderstorms are common July-September, typically building between 1-2 PM and lasting until 4-5 PM. Cross high passes by noon whenever possible. Watch for towering cumulus clouds, darkening skies, and rising wind. If caught above treeline during electrical activity, descend immediately; there is no safe shelter outdoors.
Trail Conditions: The northern section from Roads End to Palisade Creek is hot, steep, sandy, and exposed with underwhelming views, a notorious slog on day one with a heavy pack. Sections off the JMT/HST tend toward overgrowth and brush. Harrison Pass (if attempting this variation) is unmaintained Class 2 with faint trail and may require an ice ax and crampons on the north side. The mile south of Elizabeth Pass has faint tread, but cairns mark the way.
Wildlife: Black bears are common, hence the bear canister requirement. Do not approach within 50 yards. Pacific rattlesnakes frequent lower elevations, particularly along Bubbs Creek; give them space and watch where you place hands and feet. Bear spray is illegal in these parks, so deterrence relies on noise and aggressive posturing.
Navigation: Most of the loop follows well-maintained trails, but some sections require attention. Carry a map and know how to use it. Download offline maps before starting; cell service is nonexistent.
The loop traditionally starts and ends at Roads End in Kings Canyon National Park, elevation 5,050 feet. Roads End is at the literal end of Highway 180, six miles past Cedar Grove Village.
From Fresno: Fresno-Yosemite International Airport (FAT) is the closest major airport, 53 miles west of the parks. A rental car is essential; no commercial shuttles serve Cedar Grove. Drive northeast on CA-180 (Kings Canyon Scenic Byway) approximately 90 minutes from Fresno to reach Roads End. The road is scenic but winding, so budget extra time.
Seasonal Closure: Highway 180 to Cedar Grove closes for winter around November 12 and reopens the fourth Friday in April. The closure is due to rockfall risk from temperature fluctuations, not just snow. Call the 24-hour park information line at (559) 565-3341 for current status.
Parking: Roads End has free parking with accessible spaces near the wilderness permit station and restrooms, and no overnight parking restrictions. In peak season (July-August), arrive early; the lot fills by mid-morning on weekends.
Alternative Trailheads: Some hikers start at Onion Valley to pre-acclimatize before joining the loop via Kearsarge Pass. This adds mileage but helps those who acclimatize slowly.
No Shuttle Needed: Because this is a loop, you return to your starting point, without the shuttle logistics the JMT requires.
Direction Matters: Hike clockwise. This aligns you with southbound JMT traffic (so the corridor feels less crowded) and places the Colby Pass shortcut at the end, which gives you the option to shorten the trip if you fall behind schedule. Counterclockwise has no reasonable bailout options after Woods Creek junction.
Colby Pass vs Elizabeth Pass: Two route options cross the Great Western Divide. Colby Pass is 20 miles shorter (131 miles total) but very steep, with late-lingering snow and talus, and it bypasses the scenic High Sierra Trail. Elizabeth Pass adds 20 miles (155 miles total) and follows the popular High Sierra Trail, with more traffic but gentler grades and better scenery. First-timers should take Elizabeth Pass; return visitors or time-pressed hikers should consider Colby Pass.
Food Weight Strategy: One gram-obsessed hiker measured everything and cut all clothing tags. Starting with 19 pounds of food is heavy but buys flexibility for weather delays and unplanned layovers at good camps. Calorie-dense foods (nuts, olive oil, bars) maximize calories per ounce.
Pack Light, Move Fast: The first 20 miles from Roads End to Palisade Creek are miserable with a heavy pack: hot, steep, sandy, and view-poor. Cut your base weight ruthlessly to get through this section. Once you reach the JMT near Palisade Lakes, the scenery improves dramatically and stays that way for the rest of the loop.
Camp Selection: Rae Lakes has beautiful camps but enforces one-night limits, and campfires are prohibited there. Junction Meadow is the decision point for clockwise hikers choosing between the Colby and Elizabeth Pass routes. Upper Paradise Valley has good camps but the unbridged river crossing. Scout Palisade Creek crossing locations in the morning before committing.
Start Early: Not just for lightning avoidance. Creek crossings are safer in early morning before snowmelt peaks, and you avoid afternoon heat on exposed sections. Aim for alpine starts (5-6 AM) on pass days.
Permits Are Easier: Copper Creek and Bubbs Creek permits are significantly easier to get than Whitney Portal or Happy Isles for the JMT. If you miss the permit lottery, this loop is a less competitive alternative with comparable scenery.
Physical Conditioning: Train with a weighted pack on steep terrain at altitude if possible. The relentless up-and-down, with a cumulative 36,000+ feet of elevation gain, will break undertrained hikers. Know you can handle 4,000-foot days with a full pack before committing.
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