The Susquehannock Trail System (STS) is Pennsylvania's oldest backpacking trail and one of its best-kept secrets. This 85-mile loop winds through the forested hills and valleys of Susquehannock State Forest in Potter County, one of Pennsylvania's most sparsely populated regions. The trail offers profound isolation—you'll likely see more bears than people—while traversing some of the state's most remote terrain, including a 10-mile stretch through the 30,000-acre Hammersley Wild Area, Pennsylvania's largest roadless tract.
The STS is ideal for intermediate to advanced backpackers seeking solitude without extreme technical challenges. While the trail accumulates over 14,000 feet of elevation gain across its length, climbs are typically gradual, and the footpath itself is remarkably smooth with few rocks or roots. Expect hardwood forests mixed with conifer stands, cascading streams, beaver meadows, and occasional views. With 10 well-maintained Adirondack shelters (the best shelter network of any Pennsylvania trail) and abundant primitive camping options, the STS offers flexibility for planning a 4-6 day thru-hike.
No permit is required for backpack camping if staying no more than one night at any location. However, you must obtain a free primitive camping permit from the Susquehannock State Forest District Office (814-274-3600 or fd15@pa.gov) if: - You plan to stay more than one night at the same site - You want an emergency point-of-contact on file - You need a campfire during spring fire season (March 1 - May 25)
Groups larger than 10 people require a Letter of Authorization, which takes 2-3 weeks to process.
Camping regulations: - Camp at least 200 feet from forest roads - Camp at least 25 feet from the trail - Camp at least 100 feet from streams or open water - Maximum 7-night stay limit - No camping on private property or in state parks (a few short sections pass through these areas)
Campfire permits are required October 1 - May 25. Campfires are prohibited during high fire danger periods. Contact the district office for current regulations at https://www.pa.gov/agencies/dcnr/recreation/where-to-go/state-forests/find-a-forest/susquehannock/camping
Late spring through early fall (May-October) is prime hiking season. September and early October are particularly spectacular for fall foliage, with brilliant displays from the abundant maple and birch.
Summer (June-September): Daytime highs in the 70s-80s, nighttime lows in the 50s (frosty nights possible in September). June is the rainiest month (expect 3-4.5 inches), but water sources are most reliable. Major drawback: Ticks, mosquitoes, and blackflies are intense, especially in overgrown sections. The dense vegetation creates what hikers call a "tick paradise." Use Picaridin on skin and treat clothes with Permethrin.
Spring (late April-May): Wildflowers are spectacular (red trillium, squirrel corn, dutchman's breeches, trout lily), and mountain laurel blooms in June. However, streams run high, making crossings boot-deep or deeper. Many sections will be wet and muddy. Snow is possible through early May at this elevation.
Fall (September-October): Best overall season. Cooler temperatures, fewer bugs, stunning fall colors, and still-reliable water. Nights can be frosty.
Winter (November-April): Not recommended unless you're experienced with winter backpacking. The STS sits at high elevation for Pennsylvania and holds some of the state's longest snow cover. Expect snow on the ground November through April most years, with possible snow as early as October and as late as May.
Water is generally reliable, as the trail frequently crosses or follows creeks and streams, with sources typically every few miles. However, water planning is critical:
Seasonal reliability: Smaller streams often run dry by summer and fall. Stick to larger creeks and named streams. Six of the ten shelters are in dry locations—the Susquehannock Trail Club tries to cache water at these shelters, but don't count on it.
Best water sources: Mile 6.7 (Lyman Run), Mile 19.55 (Cross Fork Creek), Mile 54.5 (Hammersley Creek), Mile 71.7 (Prouty Lick Run). Always filter—protozoa and bacteria are concerns.
Resupply: Cross Fork (Mile 49-50) is the only town on trail, offering a general store with deli sandwiches and snacks, two restaurants/bars, a post office, and lodging. It's perfectly positioned for resupply at the halfway point. Long-term parking is available at the Forestry Maintenance Building (41.482110, -77.818396). No other towns are accessible without hitchhiking, though Coudersport (9 miles from Northern Gateway) and Galeton (14 miles from Northern Gateway) are possible hitches.
Black bears: Very large population. Bears aren't a direct threat but are aggressive food thieves. Proper food hanging is essential. Some hikers report more bear encounters here than on their entire AT thru-hikes.
Timber rattlesnakes: Healthy population, especially on the southern portion during summer. They often sun themselves on the trail and don't always rattle. Most hikers never see one, but pay attention in sunny sections.
Stream crossings: Numerous crossings, some unavoidable. During spring runoff (March-April), expect 6+ crossings that are 4-8 feet wide and 6-8 inches deep. In summer/fall, many are dry or rock-hoppable. Your feet will get wet. Never attempt high-water crossings during flooding.
Ticks and bugs: Extremely heavy tick populations in overgrown sections. Check constantly. Mosquitoes and blackflies are intense in spring and early summer, especially near wetlands.
Navigation: Generally well-blazed with orange paint, but some sections have minimal blazing requiring "best guess" navigation. Mile markers every 10 miles help. The trail passes through the Hammersley Wild Area with brushy, overgrown sections. Bring a detailed map and compass/GPS. The Susquehannock Trail Club's guidebook is highly recommended.
Remoteness: The Hammersley Wild Area section offers 10 miles without roads. Cell coverage is virtually nonexistent throughout the trail. T-Mobile has dead zones throughout the forest. Have an emergency plan that doesn't rely on phones.
Nearest airports: - Williamsport Regional Airport (IPT): ~60 miles south, limited service to Dulles - Elmira/Corning Regional Airport (ELM): ~90 miles north in New York, better connections
Most backpackers drive. Nearest towns: Coudersport (9 miles from Northern Gateway) and Galeton (14 miles from Northern Gateway).
Trailheads with parking:
Northern Gateway (most popular start): PA State Forest District Office along US Route 6 (41.769194, -77.870111). Access STS via marked 0.4-mile trail from office. Free long-term parking.
Cross Fork: Forestry Maintenance Building behind Kettle Creek Hose Company (41.482110, -77.818396). Free long-term parking. Trail passes through town.
Patterson State Park: Western side of loop on PA Route 44. Park on east or north side, NOT in camping area.
Ole Bull State Park: (41.538682, -77.714718)
Multiple road crossings offer additional access.
Shuttles: The Susquehannock Trail Club offers informal shuttle service through volunteers. Contact John Zimmer (Cross Fork area and southern sections) or Wanda Shirk (Patterson Park and northern sections) via stc-hike.org/shuttles. Both are retired and usually available. No set prices—donations appreciated based on distance. Example: Cross Fork to Denton Hill is 1 hour each way. Book in advance with preferred dates/times.
Direction: Hike clockwise for easier navigation. This direction follows the guidebook descriptions, matches mileage markers on trees, and puts Cross Fork at the halfway point for convenient resupply.
Shelter strategy: The 10 shelters average one every 8.5 miles—some of the best spacing in Pennsylvania. Popular shelters include the Dynamite House (repurposed 1930s CCC explosives shed) and Bolich Run (meadow setting with hemlock-shaded creek). About half have nearby water; the others are dry. Don't rely on cached water.
Camp selection: Best primitive campsites at Mile 6.7 (Lyman Run), Mile 19.55 (Cross Fork Creek), Mile 54.5 (Hammersley Creek), Mile 71.7 (Prouty Lick Run). Look for flat spots near reliable streams.
Timing: Most backpackers complete the loop in 4-6 days. Strong hikers can do it in 4, but 5-6 days allows for a more relaxed pace and flexibility around weather.
Toughest section: Mile 36 at Morgan Hollow—you'll drop 600 feet in 0.3 miles. Trekking poles help significantly throughout the trail.
Trail maintenance: The Susquehannock Trail Club (stc-hike.org) maintains the trail and recently completed major upgrades including a tenth shelter, new bridges, and extensive maintenance. Support them by purchasing their guidebook/map or becoming a member.
Solitude: This trail flies under most backpackers' radar. You'll likely have it to yourself, especially in the Hammersley Wild Area. Embrace the isolation—it's one of the STS's greatest assets.
Wildlife: Besides bears and rattlesnakes, watch for elk (reintroduced to Pennsylvania), white-tailed deer, and abundant birdlife. Dark skies make for excellent stargazing.
Hydration planning: Carry 2-3 liters between reliable sources, especially in late summer/fall when smaller streams dry up. Don't count on springs or shelter caches.
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