The Wonderland Trail is a 93-mile circumnavigation of Mount Rainier, gaining and losing 22,000+ feet of elevation as it crosses ridges, river valleys, and alpine meadows. Designated a National Recreation Trail in 1981, it is one of the most sought-after backpacking trips in the Pacific Northwest. Expect relentless ups and downs, 3,000 to 6,000 feet of elevation change per day, through old-growth forests, wildflower meadows, and glacial moraines, with 25 named glaciers carving the mountain above you.
The trail suits experienced backpackers comfortable with big daily elevation gain, primitive river crossings, and variable mountain weather. Most hikers complete the loop in 10-14 days, though fit hikers push it in 6-8. The route is well-maintained but demanding: you descend to cross glacial rivers, climb back out of valleys, and repeat that pattern around the entire mountain. Every night is spent at a designated wilderness camp with bear poles or boxes; dispersed camping is not allowed.
Wilderness permits are mandatory year-round and extremely competitive during summer. The permit system has three routes:
Early Access Lottery (recommended): Apply February 10-March 3 for a chance to book permits during a priority window starting March 21. Results are announced March 14. This gives you first pick of campsites.
General Release: Remaining permits go live April 25 for the general public. Competition is fierce; roughly 10,000 applicants vie for 600 advance permits annually.
Walk-Up Permits: One-third of permits are held for first-come, first-served issuance at ranger stations, available same-day or the day before your start. Risky but possible, especially on weekdays or in shoulder season.
Cost: $10 per person per night (under 15 free) plus a $6 reservation fee. Book through Recreation.gov.
Key Rules: - Designated camps only; you must camp where your permit specifies each night - Group size: 5 or fewer for standard sites; parties of 6+ require designated group sites - Fires prohibited in the backcountry (stoves only) - Food storage: all food, garbage, and scented items must be hung on the provided bear poles or stored in bear boxes at camp - Bear canisters are not required (all camps have bear infrastructure) but useful for alpine or cross-country travel - Fire bans are common August-September; check current restrictions before departure
Visit the NPS Wilderness Permits page for current regulations.
Late July through mid-September is prime, and August is peak season for good reason.
July: Transitional. Early July often has deep snow at higher elevations and swollen glacial rivers. Late July sees snow retreating and wildflowers beginning, but expect some lingering snow patches and possible missing or damaged log bridges from spring runoff. An ice axe is useful if hiking before late July.
August: Best weather, peak wildflowers (early to mid-month), and the highest likelihood of a snow-free trail. Also peak mosquitoes and the heaviest competition for permits. Wildfire risk rises in late August. This is when most of the 200-250 annual thru-hikers complete the trail.
September: Fewer crowds and fewer bugs, with fall foliage and mushrooms replacing the wildflowers. Nights are cooler (expect freezing temperatures), days are shorter, and early snow is a risk. Mid-September onward is quiet but requires flexibility around weather.
Snow conditions vary drastically year to year. High-snow years may keep passes closed into early August; low-snow years can make late September feasible. The Spray Park and Seattle Park alternative routes often hold snow until late August. Check current conditions at ranger stations before starting.
Water is abundant, with a source near every designated camp, but conditions change seasonally.
Water Reliability: Creeks and streams flow reliably through August. By late September, some sources diminish or dry completely. Klapatche Park's Aurora Lake is notoriously unreliable; by late summer it is often a tadpole-filled pond or a dried mudflat. If Aurora Lake is dry, the nearest water is St. Andrews Lake, a 1.5-mile round trip. One stretch can reach 8 miles without water late in the season. Treat or filter all water.
Food Caching: Most hikers cache food to avoid carrying 10-14 days of supplies. The park allows caches at two locations:
Caching Requirements: Use rodent-proof 5-gallon buckets. Mail to: Mount Rainier National Park, White River WIC, 70002 SR 410 East, Enumclaw, WA 98022 (USPS, UPS, FedEx accepted). Hand-deliver or mail at least a week before your start date.
Resupply Towns: Paradise, Longmire, and Sunrise have visitor facilities where you can buy hot meals but cannot cache food (Paradise is not an official cache location). Nearby towns include Ashford (Nisqually entrance), Enumclaw (northeast), Packwood (southeast), and Elbe. All have groceries and outdoor gear shops, such as Whittaker Mountaineering in Ashford.
Important Note: Mowich Lake is currently inaccessible due to the Fairfax Bridge closure on SR 165. The closure is expected to last years. Do not plan to start, end, or resupply at Mowich Lake until further notice.
This trail demands respect. The greatest hazards are glacial river crossings and variable weather.
River Crossings: The most dangerous part of the Wonderland Trail. Many crossings use primitive log bridges with or without railings; some require fording. Glacial rivers carry sediment and rolling boulders, and falling in can be fatal. Flow varies hourly with snowmelt and daily temperatures. Cross early in the morning, before the day's melt begins, when flows are lowest. After heavy rain or during peak snowmelt (June-early July), crossings can be impassable. The park replaces washed-out bridges constantly but can't keep up with major events. The Mowich River crossing is notoriously difficult and may require scouting upstream for safer crossing points.
Weather: Mountain weather changes rapidly. Expect rain, fog, wind, and possible snow even in August. Freezing nights are common by September. Lightning is a risk on exposed ridges and high passes; don't linger on ridges during afternoon thunderstorms, which are common in mid-summer. Visibility can drop to near zero in fog, so navigation skills are essential.
Bears: Black bears are present throughout the park. Make noise while hiking, store all food properly on the bear poles or boxes at camp, and never leave food unattended. If you meet a bear on the trail, back away calmly while talking to it ("Hey bear!") and give it space to leave. Do not run. In camp, scare off bears by yelling or banging pots.
Physical Demands: The relentless elevation change grinds down even strong hikers. Daily gains and losses of 3,000-6,000 feet with a multi-day pack cause cumulative fatigue and joint strain. Conditioning with weighted pack hikes on steep terrain is essential. Knees suffer on the long descents; trekking poles are highly recommended.
Navigation: The trail is well-marked, but snow, fog, and avalanche debris can obscure it. Carry a map, compass, and/or GPS. Cell service is nonexistent in the backcountry.
Wildfire: Smoke from regional fires can impair visibility and air quality, especially in late summer. Check fire restrictions and air quality forecasts before departure.
The Wonderland Trail is a loop with multiple access points, but the logistics take planning.
Airports: Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) is closest, 85 miles from the Nisqually entrance, about 2 hours by car. Portland International (PDX) is 135 miles south.
Gateway Towns: - Enumclaw (northeast): Largest gateway community, full services, cell coverage, Wi-Fi at the library and businesses. - Ashford (Nisqually entrance): Lodging, limited groceries, Whittaker Mountaineering for gear. Free Wi-Fi at Copper Creek Inn and BaseCamp Bar & Grill. - Packwood (southeast): Full services, groceries. - Elbe (west): Small town with basic services.
Trailhead Access: Popular start points include Longmire (paved access, year-round), White River Campground (paved access), and historically Mowich Lake (currently closed due to the Fairfax Bridge failure; no vehicle or pedestrian access until further notice). All major trailheads have parking, though the lots fill on summer weekends.
Shuttles: No public transit serves the park. Talking Rocks Outdoor Company (253-350-1211) runs private shuttles at $1.11/mile + $29/hour from their Enumclaw office. They can position your car, provide full transportation from Seattle or the airport, or shuttle between trailheads. Essential for point-to-point hikes and other logistics.
Park Entrance Fees: $30 per vehicle (7 days) or $55 annual pass. Interagency passes accepted.
Road Conditions: The main park roads (to Longmire, Paradise, Sunrise, White River) are paved and well-maintained. Some trailheads require gravel roads; high clearance is not typically needed except for remoter access points (which may be closed).
Direction: Clockwise is slightly more popular (fewer steep climbs), but counterclockwise puts the steep sections on descents instead of climbs, which is easier on the lungs and harder on the knees. Choose based on whether you'd rather suffer uphill or downhill. Either direction works equally well.
Camp Selection: The most competitive camps are Indian Bar and Summerland on the east side, both in high alpine meadows, and Spray Park (if snow-free). Book these early if you win the lottery. The Northern Valley and Golden Lakes camps have more availability and excellent views. Some camps have water sources up to 1 mile away, so plan accordingly.
Packing: Every ounce matters on this trail. Aim for a base weight under 15 lbs if possible. Bring trekking poles, quality rain gear, warm layers for freezing nights, and a reliable stove (no fires allowed). Microspikes or light crampons are useful for early-season snow patches.
Timing: Start early each day to cross rivers before peak melt and to avoid afternoon thunderstorms on exposed sections. Sunrise views from the camps often beat daytime conditions.
Trail Magic: Sunrise Visitor Center is accessible mid-trail for some hikers. Friends or family can meet you there with fresh food, which is a huge morale boost. Paradise also has hot meals and restrooms.
Conditioning: Train with a weighted pack on steep, uneven terrain. Your knees will thank you. Consider hiking sections of the trail on day hikes before committing to a thru-hike permit.
Flexibility: Weather, river crossings, and your physical condition may force itinerary changes. Build in a buffer day if possible, or be prepared to adjust camps with rangers (difficult but sometimes possible).
Photography: Early mornings and late evenings have the best light on the mountain. A lightweight tripod is worthwhile for alpenglow shots. Wildflower peak is typically the first two weeks of August.
Leave No Trace: Pack out all trash, use the designated privies, and camp only at assigned sites. The park's fragile alpine meadows are easily damaged, so stay on the trail.
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