The Trail Between The Lakes (TBTL) is a 28-mile point-to-point trail through the Sabine National Forest in deep East Texas, connecting Sam Rayburn and Toledo Bend Reservoirs. Built in the 1980s through a partnership between the Golden Triangle Sierra Club and the US Forest Service, the trail gives backpackers a surprisingly remote walk through three distinct ecosystems: Pine Savannah, Bottomland Hardwood Forest, and Beech-Magnolia Canyons. Elevation gain is modest (1,463 feet over the entire route), but the trail earns its "challenging" rating through length, primitive conditions, and potential overgrowth in the summer months. It suits backpackers who want solitude in East Texas pine forests, don't mind wet creek crossings, and are willing to plan water caches.
No permits required. Dispersed camping is allowed along the trail year-round, but during deer hunting season (late September through early January), the US Forest Service Designated Camping policy restricts camping to Lakeview Campground or the four established Hunter Camps (Forest Road 109C at mile 10.9, N. Moore Plantation on FR 152 at mile 15.8, Moore Plantation near FR 114/114D junction at mile 20.5, and Lakeview at the eastern terminus). Standard national forest regulations apply: a 14-day camping limit within any 30-day period, camping at least 100 feet from the trail to minimize impact, and packing out all trash. Fire restrictions vary with season and drought conditions. Check with the Sabine Ranger District (409-625-1940) before your trip, since counties can put burn bans in place during dry periods. The trail is hiking-only; mountain bikes, horses, and motorized vehicles are prohibited.
Spring (March-May) and fall (October-November) bring the best conditions: mild temperatures, lower humidity, wildflower displays in spring, and colorful foliage in fall. Winter (December-February) sees the fewest hikers and comfortable daytime temperatures, though occasional hard freezes occur overnight. Summer (June-September) means oppressive heat and humidity (regularly exceeding 90°F), intense mosquito activity peaking in July-August, and aggressive trail overgrowth in the middle sections. East Texas receives its maximum rainfall in May, and afternoon thunderstorms are common through the summer months. Hunting season runs late September through January, so wear bright colors and expect the hunter camps to be occupied on fall weekends. The trail drains quickly after rain, but Little Creek (mile 23.5) can rise ten feet overnight during heavy storms; it typically drops back to knee-deep within 12 hours.
Water caching is strongly recommended and relatively easy thanks to the many road crossings. The US Forest Service advises against drinking trail water even when filtered, citing dissolved heavy metals from historical oil and gas drilling, though it might be acceptable in an emergency. Cache water at road crossings in labeled gallon jugs hidden off-trail; Avenza maps show the crossings with mileage markers for planning. The only reliable potable source is the faucet at Lakeview Campground on the eastern terminus. Creek crossings are numerous, but the water is mostly stagnant and scummy. Little Creek (mile 13.4) and Walnut Creek are the largest crossings. Little Creek rarely exceeds shin-deep except during and after rain, when it can reach knee-deep for 12-24 hours. During droughts, crossings can be dry. No resupply options exist along the trail. The nearest town is Hemphill (a few miles from the trailheads), which has basic supplies but limited backpacking-specific gear. The nearest substantial resupply is Lufkin (40+ miles west) or Shreveport, LA (93 miles northeast).
Five venomous snake species inhabit the forest: Texas coralsnake, eastern copperhead, northern cottonmouth, timber rattlesnake, and western pygmy rattlesnake. Watch carefully in overgrown sections and around creek crossings. Ticks and chiggers are extremely prevalent, especially in overgrown summer growth and around the hunter camps. Treat clothing with permethrin and check thoroughly each evening. Mosquitoes peak April-October, with July-August the worst, and Asian tiger mosquitoes bite aggressively during daylight hours. The middle section tends toward serious overgrowth in summer, which can mean bushwhacking through spider webs and brush. Navigation requires attention in faint sections despite good marking. The trail uses 2"x4" aluminum rectangular blazes mounted 5 feet high (vertical=straight, left-leaning=left turn, double right-leaning=hard right). Black bears occasionally wander over from Louisiana, but there is no resident population; standard bear awareness is sufficient. Creek crossings, while numerous, are not dangerous except immediately after heavy rain. There is no significant exposure and no lightning-prone ridges.
Western trailhead (Sam Rayburn side): From Lufkin, take Highway 103 east 40 miles, turn right (south) on Highway 96 for 17 miles, and look for the trailhead sign. Eastern trailhead (Toledo Bend/Lakeview): From Pineland, TX, follow FM 2426 east 10 miles, turn right (south) on Highway 87 for 3 miles, turn left (east) on FM 2928 for 3.5 miles to the end of the pavement, then follow signs to Lakeview, approximately 4 miles on gravel roads. Lakeview Campground has 10 primitive sites ($3/night) with picnic tables, grills, tent pads, central water hydrants, and pit toilets, which makes it a good staging spot the night before or after your hike. Parking is available at both trailheads. No official shuttle service exists, but the Trail Between The Lakes Facebook group helps hikers arrange shuttles with each other. Nearest airports: Shreveport Regional (SHV) 93 miles, East Texas Regional (GGG) 107 miles, or Houston Bush Intercontinental (IAH) 156 miles. Roads to the trailheads are paved or well-maintained gravel; standard clearance vehicles are sufficient.
Cache water at multiple road crossings rather than relying on creek water. Use screw-top gallon jugs labeled with your name and pickup date, and hide them well off-road. Westbound (Toledo Bend to Sam Rayburn) is slightly more popular and puts the Little Creek crossing earlier, when you're less tired. Most backpackers complete the trail in 2-3 days; the four hunter camps provide convenient spacing but fill with hunters during fall season. Camp selection is excellent under the pines on soft duff. Look for level spots at least 100 feet from the trail and creeks. The trail crosses several forest roads, which allows flexible itineraries and bailout options. Join the Facebook group before your hike for current conditions, recent trip reports, and shuttle coordination. Bring permethrin-treated clothing, a head net for bugs in warm months, and gaiters for overgrown sections. The trail sees far fewer hikers than other Texas trails like the Lone Star Trail, so genuine solitude is realistic. Despite being mostly flat, the combination of distance, heat and humidity, and primitive conditions makes this harder than the elevation suggests. Don't underestimate it based on the gentle terrain.
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