River to River Trail

Overview

The River to River Trail is a 160-mile backpacking route across southern Illinois' Shawnee National Forest, connecting the Ohio River at Elizabethtown to the Mississippi River at Grand Tower. Few Midwest long-distance routes get this little attention. The trail passes through five designated wilderness areas and terrain that ranges from limestone bluffs and creek-carved canyons to wetlands and hardwood forests, some of the best geology Illinois has. It suits backpackers who want a challenging thru-hike closer to home, or a proving ground before longer trails like the Appalachian Trail.

Expect a patchwork journey combining wooded singletrack (about 50% of the route), significant road walking, and shared use with equestrians. The terrain is surprisingly rugged for Illinois, with 15,291 feet of cumulative elevation gain over rocky, root-filled trails broken up by creek crossings and steep climbs to bluff overlooks. This is not a manicured path. Be prepared for mud from horse traffic, navigation problems in spots, downed trees (especially on western sections hit by storms), and long stretches on paved and gravel roads.

Permits & Regulations

No permits or reservations are required. The Shawnee National Forest allows free primitive camping year-round throughout the forest, with a 14-day maximum stay in one location. Camp at least 150 feet from trails and water sources (lakes, rivers, streams, creeks). Equestrian camping is prohibited in designated wilderness areas. Campfires must use dead and down wood only; cutting live vegetation is strictly prohibited. Check for county or forest-wide burn bans before your trip, which can prohibit all fires during dry conditions.

Pets are allowed but must be leashed. No camping is permitted in the forest's 80 designated natural areas, along lake shores, or directly on trails. Overnight parking is allowed at trailheads and along forest roads.

For current regulations and burn ban status, contact Shawnee National Forest headquarters at (618) 253-7114 or visit https://www.fs.usda.gov/r09/shawnee.

Best Season

Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) are optimal, with moderate temperatures, spring wildflowers, and fall color in the hardwood forests. These are also the busiest seasons on the trail.

Fall is generally better than spring because trail conditions are more stable. Spring can bring heavy rains that turn the horse-trafficked sections into muddy quagmires, which makes both hiking and navigation much harder. Fall has drier trails, minimal bugs, and comfortable temperatures.

Avoid summer (July-August) if possible. Southern Illinois heat and humidity are brutal, with temperatures regularly exceeding 90°F. The vegetation grows in thick, which makes trail-finding difficult and increases tick and chigger exposure, and water sources are less reliable during dry spells. Winter (December-February) is feasible, and some experienced hikers prefer December for cooler temperatures and less vegetation, but cold snaps and occasional snow or ice are possible.

Water & Resupply

Water requires planning and treatment. The trail crosses numerous creeks and streams and passes several lakes, but all water must be filtered or chemically treated. During periods without rain, many creeks dry up entirely, particularly in summer. The River to River Trail Society's guidebook (available at rivertorivertrail.net) identifies reliable water sources; reading it is essential pre-trip research. Carry capacity for 2-3 liters between sources and plan water stops carefully.

Resupply options are limited and require hitching or a shuttle:

• Vienna (near mid-trail): The most accessible resupply town, with full services including grocery stores. Hikers often hitch from trail access points.
• Elizabethtown (eastern terminus): Small town with limited services at the start.
• Murphysboro (near western sections): Larger town reachable from the western trail sections.
• High Knob: Public water spigot available at the horse camp for water resupply.

Most thru-hikers carry 3-5 days of food between resupply points. Mail drops are generally not practical given the rural setting and limited post office access along the route.

Shawnee Guided Tours runs shuttle services for $25 per person, useful for section hiking or resupply runs. Contact them or check the River to River Trail Society website for current shuttle providers willing to help hikers.

Hazards & Challenges

Navigation: The trail is not always well-marked, particularly in sections recovering from storm damage. Downloadable GPS tracks are essential. Do not rely solely on blazes; some sections have faded or missing markers. The official River to River Trail Society maps (updated to version 4.0 in December 2022) are critical.

Ticks: This is the trail's most significant hazard. The River to River Trail Society devoted an entire annual meeting to tick safety with a university expert. Ticks are prevalent April-October, with deer ticks (Lyme disease) and lone star ticks (alpha-gal syndrome) both present. Wear permethrin-treated clothing, use DEET, do thorough tick checks twice daily, and consider long pants tucked into socks despite the heat.

Venomous snakes: Timber rattlesnakes and copperheads live in the rocky bluff areas and wooded sections. Both are non-aggressive and typically retreat if given space. Watch where you step and place your hands, especially around rocks and logs.

Poison ivy: Abundant along the trail, particularly in overgrown summer sections. Learn to identify it and keep your distance. Long pants are advisable despite the heat.

Mud and trail conditions: Horse traffic creates deep, uneven ruts that fill with water after rain, making some sections difficult and messy. Western sections have extensive downed trees from wind and ice storms. Spring can be particularly hard going.

Road walking: About half the trail follows roads: paved, gravel, and forest roads. Some stretches exceed 3 miles on pavement. It is tedious and hard on feet, but road sections often provide access to water at churches and occasional trail magic from locals.

Stream crossings: There are numerous creek crossings, most minor and rock-hoppable in normal conditions. After heavy rain, some may require wading. No major dangerous river fords are typical.

Getting There

Nearest airports: - Lambert-St. Louis International Airport (STL) is the largest option, roughly 90-120 minutes from the trail - Williamson County Airport (MWA) in Marion, IL and Cape Girardeau Airport (CGI) in Missouri are smaller regional options closer to the trail

Eastern terminus (Elizabethtown): Free parking is available in Elizabethtown. Park near the sheriff's office rather than the Rose Hotel trailhead to avoid blocking the official trailhead. This is the traditional starting point for eastbound thru-hikers.

Western terminus (Grand Tower/Devil's Backbone Park): Access from Devil's Backbone Park on the Mississippi River.

Popular section hiking trailheads: - Garden of the Gods Backpacker's Parking Lot: One of the few locations allowing overnight parking, and a good base for the Garden of the Gods wilderness section - Hitchin Post Trailhead: Allows overnight parking - High Knob Recreation Area: Popular access point with parking

Roads to trailheads are generally passable in standard vehicles. High clearance is not typically required, though some forest roads may be rough.

Arrange shuttles through Shawnee Guided Tours or check the River to River Trail Society website for current shuttle providers and trail angels.

Tips

Hike eastbound: Most hikers start at Elizabethtown on the east and head west. The eastern sections are in better shape, with less storm damage and fewer downed trees than the western sections.

Break it into sections: Most backpackers do the trail in 1-3 night segments rather than thru-hiking. The Garden of the Gods wilderness section makes a fine weekend trip, and Sections 19 and 20 (Panther Den Wilderness area) form another excellent 13.4-mile segment.

Realistic daily mileage: Plan for 10-12 miles per day for a comfortable thru-hike (14 days total). Rugged terrain, elevation changes, road walking, and navigation problems slow you down compared to flatter trails. Experienced, fit hikers can push 15+ miles daily to finish in 10 days.

Download maps and GPS tracks: Cell coverage is spotty to non-existent in many sections. Download the official River to River Trail Society maps and GPS tracks before you start, and do not rely on phone navigation.

Join the Facebook community: The River to River Trail Hikers Facebook group is active and useful for current trail conditions, water source updates, and connecting with locals who may offer trail magic or shuttles.

Campsites in Garden of the Gods: The bluff lines in the Garden of the Gods wilderness section have excellent viewpoints for camping. The climb is strenuous, but the sites are worth it. There is also a good creekside camp where Trail #152B intersects a sharp creek bend.

Expect solitude: This trail sees far less traffic than popular routes. You may go days without seeing another backpacker, though you will occasionally meet equestrians, especially near horse camps.

Consider a December thru-hike: Some experienced hikers prefer winter, particularly December, to avoid heat, humidity, ticks, overgrown vegetation, and mud. Pack appropriate cold-weather gear and expect fewer daylight hours.

Community support: Southern Illinois locals are friendly to hikers. Churches along road sections sometimes provide water or snacks to thru-hikers, and you may receive unexpected trail magic. The River to River Trail Society works hard to maintain this trail; consider joining or donating to support their efforts.