The Snowbank and Old Pines Loop is a 29-mile canoe route through the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) in northern Minnesota's Superior National Forest. This is not a hiking trail — it's a paddle-and-portage route that offers 3-5 days of wilderness camping among pristine lakes, boreal forest, and granite outcrops. The route begins at Snowbank Lake (Entry Point 27), one of the most popular BWCAW entry points, and winds through a chain of interconnected lakes including Parent Lake, Disappointment Lake, and potentially Hook, Phoebe, or Rifle Lakes depending on your chosen variation.
The BWCAW is famous for its strict wilderness character: no motors, no wheeled portage carts, no bottles or cans. You'll camp at designated lakeside campsites (72 sites are distributed across the lakes on this route), fish for walleye and northern pike, and experience true solitude. This loop is ideal for intermediate paddlers comfortable with wilderness navigation, portaging loaded canoes, and self-sufficient camping. Beginners can handle this route with proper preparation, but should be comfortable with multi-mile open water crossings and carrying a loaded canoe on portage trails.
Boundary Waters permits are required and operate on a strict quota system. You must reserve in advance through Recreation.gov (for dates starting the last Saturday in April through September 30) or contact the Superior National Forest directly for shoulder season dates. Permits cost $16 per adult plus a $6 per person per trip reservation fee when booking online.
Critical timing: Popular entry points like Snowbank Lake (EP 27) often book out months in advance, especially for summer weekends. Permits become available for the season on the last Wednesday in January — this is when you need to be ready to book if you want peak season dates.
Regulations are strict: - Maximum group size: 9 people, 4 watercraft - Hang food in bear-proof fashion (ropes and hanging recommended; bear canisters allowed but not required) - Pack out all trash (no burying) - No bottles or cans allowed (transfer to reusable containers) - Camp only at designated campsites marked with fire grate and latrine - Fires allowed only in fire grates at campsites - No soap in lakes (even biodegradable)
Prime season: Late May through September, with July-August being peak season.
May-early June: Ice-out typically occurs in early May. Water levels are highest, portage trails can be muddy, and bugs (especially mosquitoes and black flies) are at their worst from mid-May through late June. However, this is also when campsites are most available, and the mosquitoes are manageable with proper netting and repellent. Fishing is excellent.
July-August: Peak season with the most stable weather and warmest water temperatures (60s-70s°F). Campsites book out far in advance. Bugs diminish significantly by mid-July. Thunderstorms are common in afternoons.
September: Fall color typically peaks late September. Bugs are gone, and the weather is crisp and beautiful, but water temperatures drop (50s°F), and campsites may be more available as the season winds down. Permits transition from the online quota system to walk-up availability after September 30.
Avoid: Late September through April. The BWCAW is accessible for winter camping, but this requires specialized cold-weather skills and is a fundamentally different experience.
Water is abundant — you're surrounded by it. All drinking water should be filtered or treated; while BWCAW lakes are among the cleanest in the lower 48, giardia is present. Paddle close to shore when scouting for water to avoid surface algae in summer.
Resupply: There is no resupply on this 3-5 day loop. Plan to carry all food from the start. The nearest town with full services is Ely, Minnesota (about 20 miles from the Snowbank Lake trailhead). Ely has multiple grocery stores (Zup's, Holiday), gear shops (Piragis Northwoods Company is legendary for BWCAW outfitting), and restaurants.
Many paddlers rent canoes, paddles, life jackets, and purchase freeze-dried meals in Ely rather than traveling with bulky gear. Ely is also the hub for BWCAW information — stop at the Superior National Forest Kawishiwi Ranger Station in Ely before your trip if you have questions.
Wind and open water: Snowbank Lake is large and exposed. Crossing from the entry point to the west end can be dangerous in high winds. Waves can build to 2-3 feet in afternoon winds. Paddle early in the morning when water is calmest, and stay close to shore if conditions deteriorate. If wind picks up, wait it out — there's no shame in spending an extra hour on shore.
Portages: This route includes multiple portages ranging from a few rods (1 rod = 16.5 feet) to over 100 rods. Portage trails are rocky, rooted, and can be slippery. Expect to carry your canoe, paddles, life jackets, and packs over these trails. Most experienced paddlers either double-portage (carry canoe first, return for packs) or single-portage if they're strong and lightly packed.
Wildlife: Black bears are present and habituated to human food. Hang food properly every night using the rope method (pack rope and carabiners). Moose are common and generally docile but can be aggressive if surprised or during rutting season (September-October). Wolves are present but rarely seen.
Navigation: While major lakes are straightforward, smaller lakes and bays can be confusing. Bring a waterproof map and compass. GPS units and smartphone apps are helpful backups but can fail. The USGS quads or McKenzie Maps are the gold standard for BWCAW navigation.
Weather: Thunderstorms are frequent in summer, especially afternoons. Get off the water at the first sign of lightning — paddle to shore immediately and seek low ground away from tall trees. Hypothermia risk is real even in summer if you capsize in 60°F water.
The Snowbank Lake Entry Point (EP 27) is accessed via Sawbill Trail (County Road 2) from Ely, Minnesota. From Ely, drive east on State Highway 169 for about 3 miles, then turn north on County Road 88 (Fernberg Road). After about 18 miles, turn right (east) on County Road 4 (Snowbank Road) and follow it to the end at Snowbank Lake Landing.
Parking: Day-use parking area at the landing. Overflow parking is available. Parking is free, but your vehicle will be unattended for multiple days — remove valuables.
Nearest airport: Duluth International Airport (DLH) is about 110 miles south (2-hour drive). Minneapolis-St. Paul (MSP) is 250 miles (4+ hours).
Shuttle services: Most paddlers do not need shuttles for this loop route, as you return to the same entry point. However, if you want to arrange a one-way paddle or car shuttle, several Ely outfitters offer shuttle services.
Road conditions: All roads to Snowbank Lake are paved or well-maintained gravel. No high-clearance vehicle needed, though the final stretch of Snowbank Road is gravel.
Campsite strategy: Arrive early in the day to secure good campsites, especially in July-August. Many paddlers aim to be on the water by 7-8 AM and off by 2-3 PM to avoid afternoon winds and secure prime sites. Snowbank Lake itself has many campsites, so if you're starting late in the day, you can camp on Snowbank and begin the loop proper the next morning.
Food hang: Practice your rope-tossing skills before you go. Many sites have established bear hang locations (look for ropes already in trees), but bring 50+ feet of rope and know how to rig a proper PCT-style hang between two trees.
Bug protection: Head nets are essential for May and June. Permethrin-treated clothing, DEET/picaridin, and a bug-proof tent make the difference between misery and enjoyment.
Pack light: Every pound matters when portaging. Freeze-dried meals, lightweight cookware, and a tarp or minimalist shelter can save significant weight.
Fishing: The BWCAW offers incredible fishing. Bring a rod and Minnesota fishing license (available online). Walleye, northern pike, smallmouth bass, and lake trout are all present. Campsites on points and narrows offer the best fishing access.
Layering: Even in summer, temperatures can drop into the 40s at night. Bring warm layers and rain gear. Paddling in rain is miserable without proper gear.
Campsite etiquette: Leave sites cleaner than you found them. Use existing fire rings, and burn only dead and downed wood. The BWCAW operates on a "leave no trace" ethic — pack out everything, including fish guts and eggshells.
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