Pacific Northwest Trail

Overview

The Pacific Northwest Trail through Montana and Idaho covers some of the most remote and rugged backpacking on the entire 1,200-mile route. This section crosses the Purcell and Selkirk Mountains, with granite peaks, historic fire lookout towers, and terrain that demands strong navigation skills and wilderness experience. Starting from Glacier National Park's eastern terminus, the trail continues into Idaho's Panhandle through designated wilderness areas where grizzly bears roam and trails may be poorly marked or nonexistent.

This is not a beginner-friendly route. The Montana-Idaho sections have a reputation for navigation problems, extensive blowdowns (fallen trees several feet in diameter), unmarked trail junctions, and mandatory bushwhacking in the Selkirks. Trail maintenance is inconsistent, especially in Idaho, where motorized use shares some sections. Experienced backpackers willing to handle the route-finding get extraordinary solitude, panoramic lookout tower views, and a wilder trip than any other National Scenic Trail provides.

The Purcell Mountains section (Eureka, MT to Bonners Ferry, ID) spans 99 miles with over 23,000 feet of elevation gain and passes four historic fire lookout towers, more than any other section of the PNT. The Selkirk Mountains section that follows ranks as perhaps the most rugged terrain on the entire trail, with scrambling and off-trail navigation through dense forest. Expect primitive conditions from start to finish.

Permits & Regulations

Permit requirements vary significantly depending on which land management agencies you cross:

Glacier National Park (Montana): Overnight backcountry permits are required and available through advance reservation or walk-up permits. Approximately 30% of permits are held for walk-ups, so if you arrive at a backcountry ranger station with a flexible itinerary, rangers can usually accommodate you for the next day. Have several alternate campsites in mind. Hard-sided bear canisters or approved bear-resistant food lockers (where provided) are mandatory. Vehicle entrance fees apply.

National Forest Lands (Montana & Idaho): The majority of this route crosses Kootenai National Forest (Montana) and Idaho Panhandle National Forest. No backcountry permits are required here, and dispersed camping following Leave No Trace principles is generally allowed. Free self-registration permits may be required at some trailheads. A Northwest Forest Pass ($30/year or $5/day) is required for trailhead parking in Washington sections; Montana and Idaho have different requirements, so check with the specific forest.

Bear Country Requirements: Grizzly bears inhabit approximately 400 miles of the PNT from Glacier to eastern Washington. Food storage regulations require approved bear-resistant containers or hanging food per each jurisdiction's specifications. The Pacific Northwest Trail Association strongly recommends bear spray. Food storage requirements are in effect April 1 to December 1 to prevent human-wildlife conflicts.

Fire Restrictions: Check current fire restrictions before departure, as regulations vary by forest and change seasonally. Campfires may be prohibited during high fire danger.

Official permit information: https://www.fs.usda.gov/pnt (U.S. Forest Service)

Best Season

July through September is the workable window, and mid-July to early September is ideal:

Snow Melt: High elevation passes in Montana's Rockies don't clear until July. By mid-July, seasonal bridges are installed at key river crossings in Glacier National Park. Starting before mid-June means postholing through deep snowpack and potentially impassable fords during peak snowmelt.

Peak Season: Most thru-hikers begin eastbound from Glacier in mid-June to mid-July, heading west to finish by mid-September. This timing lets the snow clear while leaving the most stable weather before autumn storms arrive. Section hikers should target July-August for the most reliable conditions.

Shoulder Season Considerations: Early June is risky due to snow and dangerous creek crossings during rapid snowmelt. One trip report noted that "snow plagued the hiker's weary ankles in the high country of Western Montana and into Idaho" even in late June. By late September, early winter storms can dump new snow at high elevations, and the days grow short. Temperatures can drop to freezing at night even in summer.

Weather Patterns: Summer brings daytime temperatures in the 80s-90s°F, but nights stay cool and sometimes freeze. Rain fronts arrive with cold, windy conditions where hypothermia is a real risk. Summer thunderstorms can produce dangerous lightning on exposed ridges and swell the creek crossings. Wildfire season peaks in late summer and can force trail closures and detours.

Average Completion Time: Most thru-hikers complete the entire 1,200-mile PNT in 10-14 weeks, averaging 20 miles per day. The Montana-Idaho sections alone take roughly 1-2 weeks for experienced hikers.

Water & Resupply

Water is generally abundant in the Montana and Idaho sections except during late summer drought:

Water Availability: Creeks, streams, and lakes appear regularly along the route, though some sources become unreliable or dry completely by late summer. The trail doesn't have the extended waterless stretches found in eastern Washington's desert sections. Most hikers report carrying 1-2 liters between fills, though capacity for 2-3 liters gives insurance against unexpected dry stretches. Always treat water; giardia and other pathogens are present.

Resupply Towns:

Eureka, Montana (population 1,100): The trail walks directly through town. Full services including grocery stores, restaurants, bars, hardware stores, and lodging. Mail drops accepted at the post office.

Yaak, Montana: 48 miles from Eureka via trail and road. A tiny waypoint with a mercantile carrying limited refreshments and snacks. Requires a short walk or hitchhike off trail. Not a full resupply, more of a snack stop.

Bonners Ferry, Idaho: Major resupply requiring a 22-mile hitchhike from the trail crossing at Kootenai River. This is a critical resupply with full grocery stores, brew pubs, restaurants, and lodging. It is the largest town in this section and the last major services before Northport, Washington. Well-stocked grocery stores and outdoor shops. Mail drops accepted.

The 99-mile Eureka to Bonners Ferry section is one of the more remote stretches, though fire lookout towers offer emergency shelter. Plan on 5-7 days of food between Eureka and Bonners Ferry depending on pace and side trips.

Pro Tip: Many fire lookout towers in the Purcells offer walk-up emergency shelter and panoramic views. Webb and Garver Mountain lookouts can be reserved in advance through Recreation.gov, a memorable place to spend a night.

Hazards & Challenges

Navigation Difficulty: This section has a well-earned reputation for hard navigation. The trail is "mostly unmarked, receives light use, and may not have been recently maintained in some remote areas." Trail junctions are often unsigned, especially in Idaho. One hiker specifically noted dreading Idaho where "trail maintenance is subpar, junctions aren't marked, and people can dirt bike on the trails." A GPS device and detailed maps are essential; the official PNTA strip maps and GPS tracks are critical.

Bushwhacking & Scrambling: The Selkirk Mountains section requires 5-6 miles of bushwhacking through dense forest and following climbers' scrambling routes where no connecting trail has been built. This is legitimate off-trail travel requiring route-finding skills, not just following a faint tread. Rock scrambling is required in places. Previous backpacking experience with off-trail navigation is strongly recommended.

Blowdowns: Massive blowdowns obstruct the trail. Fallen trees up to several feet in diameter and unstable log piles make for slow going and injury risk. Expect to climb over, crawl under, and route around extensive deadfall, especially in areas hit by previous wildfires or windstorms.

River Crossings: Numerous unbridged creek and river fords exist. Seasonal bridges go in at key Glacier locations by mid-July, but many other crossings require fording. During spring snowmelt or after heavy rains, flows swell to dangerous levels. Swift Creek and similar crossings can be impassable until early August depending on snowpack and melt rate. Trekking poles and experience with safe fording techniques are essential. Never attempt a risky ford; wait for levels to drop or find an alternate route.

Grizzly Bears & Wildlife: Grizzly bears, black bears, moose, wolves, and mountain lions inhabit this region. No serious hiker attacks have been recorded on the PNT, but defensive encounters are possible, especially with food-conditioned bears. Carry bear spray and know how to use it. Make noise in dense brush and when approaching blind corners. Store food properly every night, hanging food bags or using bear canisters where required. Moose can be aggressive during calving season and the rut.

Wildfire: Increasingly frequent wildfires have forced section closures in multiple years. Smoke can reduce visibility and air quality even from distant fires. Always check current trail alerts (https://www.pnt.org/pnta/know-before-you-go/plan-your-trip/trail-alerts/) before departure and have contingency plans for detours.

Weather Extremes: Cold rain and wind bring hypothermia risk even in summer. Freezing temperatures are possible any night at high elevation. Summer thunderstorms bring lightning danger on exposed ridges, so plan to descend from high points by early afternoon. Check avalanche forecasts in shoulder seasons via the Idaho Panhandle Avalanche Center.

Remoteness: This is genuinely remote wilderness. Cell service is nonexistent for days at a time, and an emergency evacuation could take 24+ hours. Carry a satellite communication device (InReach, SPOT, or PLB) for emergencies.

Getting There

Eastern Terminus (Chief Mountain, Glacier NP):

By Air: Fly into Glacier Park International Airport (FCA) in Kalispell, Montana or Spokane International Airport (GEG) in Washington (farther). From Kalispell/Whitefish, shuttle services run to Glacier National Park (book well in advance); request drop-off at East Glacier.

By Train: AMTRAK's Empire Builder route stops at East Glacier Park station, the closest rail access to the PNT's eastern terminus. From East Glacier, you'll need to arrange private transportation (taxi/shuttle) to the Chief Mountain customs parking area in the northeast corner of Glacier, roughly 50 miles with no public transit. Park concessionaires don't run shuttles to this remote area.

By Car: From East Glacier, drive north on Highway 89 to the Chief Mountain customs parking area. The approach road is paved but remote. High clearance is not required for this access.

Eureka, Montana (Section Start): Eureka sits on Highway 93 near the Canadian border, reachable by car from Kalispell (90 miles south) or Whitefish. No public transit. Some hikers arrange shuttles through trail angel networks or commercial shuttle services (search PNTA forums for current providers).

Bonners Ferry, Idaho: Located on Highway 95 in the Idaho Panhandle, reachable by car from Spokane, WA (130 miles) or Coeur d'Alene, ID (80 miles). No public transit runs to town, though hitchhiking from trail crossings is common (legal on highways, illegal in National Parks). Several shuttle services operate in the region; contact local outdoor shops or check PNTA resources for current providers.

Trailhead Parking: A Northwest Forest Pass is required at most National Forest trailheads in Washington ($30/year or $5/day). Montana and Idaho requirements differ by forest, so check with Kootenai NF or Idaho Panhandle NF. Glacier National Park charges vehicle entrance fees (or use an America the Beautiful Pass). Overnight parking is generally allowed at designated trailheads, but verify with local ranger districts. Vehicle break-ins are rare in these remote areas, but don't leave valuables visible.

Road Conditions: Forest service roads to some trailheads can be rough, narrow, and impassable when wet. High clearance vehicles are recommended for certain access roads, though the main highway approaches to Eureka and Bonners Ferry are paved. Check current road conditions with the specific National Forest before departure; spring washouts and fallen trees can close roads.

Tips

Fire Lookout Strategy: The Purcell section passes more fire lookout towers than any other PNT section. Webb and Garver Mountain lookouts can be reserved through Recreation.gov, and a lookout night is a quintessential PNT experience worth prioritizing. Other lookouts offer first-come, first-served emergency shelter. Even if you don't stay overnight, climbing to the lookouts gives you the best panoramic views of your entire trip.

Timing Your Day: Summer thunderstorms typically build in the afternoon. Plan to cross exposed ridges and high passes by early afternoon, descending to treeline for the evening. Lightning strikes cause most wildfires in the region, so take the risk seriously.

Navigation Tools: Download GPS tracks from the PNTA or crowd-sourced apps before departure. Cell service is nonexistent for days. Carry physical PNTA strip maps as backup. In Idaho, where junctions are unmarked and the trail may be shared with dirt bikes, having multiple navigation methods keeps you from getting lost.

Gear Notes: One thru-hiker regretted sending home their bug net before the Pasayten Wilderness due to relentless midges. Bring bug protection and consider a shelter with good ventilation. Morning dew is heavy, and a shelter helps keep your sleeping bag dry. Trekking poles are essential for river crossings and getting through blowdowns.

Wildlife Timing: Grizzly bears are most active at dawn and dusk. Consider making camp by 7pm and not breaking camp until after sunrise to minimize encounters during peak activity.

Insider Knowledge: Hikers rave about the North Fork Hostel in Polebridge, MT (near Glacier) and Feist Creek Resort in Idaho for resupply stops and zeroes. The Washington Hotel in Metaline Falls, WA is another favorite just across the Washington border. These are trail-tested stops where you'll meet other PNT hikers.

Water Concerns: Water is generally abundant, but carry 2-3 liters of capacity anyway. In late summer drought or after a dry winter, some sources may be unreliable. Check recent trip reports for current water availability.

Selkirk Scrambling: The Selkirk section's bushwhacking and scrambling is serious. This isn't overgrown trail; it follows climber routes through terrain where no trail has been built. Only attempt this section if you're comfortable with off-trail navigation and Class 2-3 scrambling. Some parties have turned back. Consider this the crux of the Montana-Idaho sections.

Permits Flexibility: If you need Glacier permits, the 30% walk-up allocation means you don't necessarily need to reserve months in advance. Arriving with a flexible itinerary and backup campsite options gives you good odds of same-day or next-day permits from the ranger stations. This strategy does require schedule flexibility.

Trail Conditions Updates: Before departure, check https://www.pnt.org/pnta/know-before-you-go/plan-your-trip/trail-alerts/ for current closures, reroutes, and conditions. Contact Kootenai National Forest (406-293-6211) and Idaho Panhandle National Forests (208-765-7223) for current trail conditions. Wildfires, blowdowns, and washouts can change conditions rapidly.