The Olympic Coast North is a 32-mile wilderness backpacking route along wild Pacific coastline from Shi Shi Beach to Lake Ozette in Washington. It is rugged coastal hiking: miles of sandy beach broken by rocky headlands, tide pools full of marine life, sea stacks rising out of the surf, and old-growth forest backing the shore. Backpackers camp directly on the beach behind driftwood, plan each day around tide charts, and climb over headlands using ropes and makeshift ladders. This is not a casual beach walk. It is a serious wilderness trip that demands navigation skills, physical fitness, and comfort with exposure on steep, slippery terrain. In return you get solitude, sunsets over Point of Arches, the constant sound of the surf, and days spent walking the edge of the continent. The route suits experienced backpackers who can handle route-finding, tide navigation, and uncertain weather.
Two permits are required for this route. First, obtain an Olympic National Park wilderness permit through Recreation.gov. Reservations for summer season (May 15-October 15) open April 15 at 7:00 AM PDT. Cost is $8 per person per night (free for ages 15 and under) plus a non-refundable $6 reservation fee. Permits must be printed 3 days before your trip start date.
Second, because the Shi Shi Beach trailhead crosses Makah tribal land, you need a Makah Recreation Pass ($20 per calendar year). Buy it in person at the Neah Bay Mini Mart, Marina, or Museum; there are no online sales. Display the pass in your vehicle windshield.
Bear canisters are mandatory on the entire Olympic Coast. Rent one when picking up your permit or bring your own approved model. Group size is limited to 12 people maximum, and affiliated groups must camp at least one mile apart. Campfires on beaches are restricted or banned during dry summer months (typically July-August), so check current conditions before departure. When fires are allowed, they must be 10+ feet from driftwood logs and no larger than 3 feet in diameter. No campfires are permitted between Wedding Rocks and Yellow Banks headlands year-round.
Late April through September has the most reliable weather and the lowest tides. May through July is prime time: low daytime tides make headland crossings easier, water sources flow reliably, and wildflowers bloom on the coastal bluffs. June is typically the driest month, with comfortable temperatures in the 55-65°F range.
Spring (April-May) brings excellent tidepooling but can be rainy, with temperatures in the 45-55°F range. Summer (July-August) has the warmest, driest weather but more crowds at popular camps like Petroleum Creek and Cape Alava, and campfire restrictions often take effect in July. Fall (September-October) sees fewer hikers, but the increasing rain and shorter days demand careful tide timing; you may need a headlamp for early morning or late afternoon headland crossings.
Winter and early spring (November-March) are not recommended. Heavy rainfall makes the Ozette River crossing dangerous or impossible, violent storms pound the coast, and the very short daylight hours make tide-dependent navigation risky.
Every major camping area has a small creek flowing to the ocean. Key sources include Petroleum Creek, Willoughby Creek, Seafield Creek, Ozette River, and streams near Wedding Rocks and Cape Alava. Collect water well back from the beach at high tide to avoid saltwater contamination. The water looks tea-colored from tannins leaching out of coastal vegetation, which is normal. Filter or boil all water; chemical treatment alone is not recommended for Petroleum Creek.
Water sources stay reliable through September but may dwindle by late summer, when you might have to hunt for the best collection point. Never count on finding water between designated camps.
No resupply is available on trail. The nearest towns are Neah Bay (small grocery, limited selection) and Sekiu (basic supplies only). Port Angeles, about 2.5 hours from Shi Shi Beach, has full supermarkets and outdoor gear shops. Plan to carry all food for the entire trip.
Tide timing is critical and non-negotiable. Several headlands are impassable at high tide and can trap you for 6-12 hours. Study NOAA tide charts for the region and plan to round headlands within 1-2 hours of low tide, ideally when tides are below 3 feet. If the tides are wrong, this route can become impassable for days. Carry laminated charts and know how to read them.
The Ozette River crossing is serious in winter and after heavy rain, when it can become chest-deep and dangerously swift. Cross at low tide only. Other coastal creeks are usually easy, but log jams can be slippery and hazardous.
Headland crossings involve scrambling on wet, moss-covered rocks and climbing steep "trails" on fixed ropes and crude wooden ladders. Some sections feel like rappelling down cliffs, and the ropes are sometimes fraying with questionable anchor points. Trekking poles are essential. Multiple hikers report slipping on kelp-covered rocks; expect at least one fall per trip. Basic rock scrambling skills are valuable.
Rolling beach logs are a serious hazard. Logs weighing thousands of pounds can shift suddenly in the surf, and fatalities have occurred. Never walk or sit directly on logs near the active wave zone. Check marine forecasts for swell predictions.
Weather changes rapidly. Dense fog can roll in within minutes and hide navigation markers. Rain is possible any month. Hypothermia risk is real even in summer once temperatures drop and you are wet from creek crossings or rain, so pack full rain gear and layers.
No cell service exists on this entire route. Carry a satellite communicator or be prepared for true wilderness self-rescue.
From Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, drive 2.5-3 hours (126 miles) to Port Angeles via I-5 North, WA-16 West, WA-3 North, and US-101. Alternatively, take the Seattle-Bainbridge Island ferry (1 hour crossing) for a scenic routing that saves some highway time.
From Port Angeles to the Shi Shi Beach trailhead: continue on US-101 west for 55 miles to Sappho, then Highway 113 north toward Clallam Bay. Turn onto Highway 112 west and follow it to Neah Bay. In Neah Bay, purchase your Makah Recreation Pass. From Neah Bay, take Hobuck Road southwest about 3 miles to the Shi Shi Beach parking area. The last 2 miles of road can be rough; high clearance helps but is not required in dry conditions.
Lake Ozette trailhead: from Port Angeles, drive US-101 west past Sappho, turn onto Highway 112 briefly, then take the Ozette Lake Road west for 21 miles to the ranger station and parking area. The large gravel lot allows overnight parking. Display your National Park entrance pass ($30 for 7 days).
Shuttle logistics: most hikers park at Ozette, arrange a shuttle to Shi Shi, and hike south. Olympic Hiking Co. runs daily 1:30 PM shuttles from Ozette to Shi Shi for approximately $75 per person; book in advance. The Shi Shi trailhead lot is day-use only, but overnight parking is available at private lots along the access road ($10 per night).
Bring gaiters or expect sand in everything. Beach hiking is slower than trail miles: budget 1.5-2 mph and plan short days so you have time for tide pools and sea stacks at low tide.
Camp selection takes some judgment. The beach moves constantly as tides, storms, and logs rearrange it. Set camp well above the high tide line marked by dried seaweed and debris. Stake tents deeply in sand. Use driftwood windbreaks, but never camp directly against logs, since they can shift. Petroleum Creek and Cape Alava are the most popular camps and can be crowded in summer; consider Willoughby Creek or Seafield Creek for more solitude.
Timing matters. Start headland crossings early in the day when tides are lowest, and wake at dawn to check the morning tide window. If you are unsure, wait. Rushing a dangerous crossing because you are behind schedule is how accidents happen.
Pack your bear canister carefully. You will be digging it out multiple times a day for snacks and water. Keep it accessible, but store it above the high tide line at night, well away from your tent.
Point of Arches at sunset is one of the best-known scenes in Washington, but you need the right tide. Camp at Petroleum Creek or Shi Shi Beach and time a late afternoon walk to the arches for low tide and golden hour.
Carry a repair kit. The rough terrain is hard on gear, and broken pole sections, torn rain flies, and shredded gaiters are common. Duct tape and a lightweight sewing kit are essential.
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