The North Lake to South Lake Loop is one of the Sierra Nevada's best-known backpacking routes, a 51-55 mile loop through the high country of eastern California. It crosses three mountain passes: Piute Pass (11,423'), Muir Pass (11,955'), and Bishop Pass (11,972'). In between it traverses Evolution Valley and Evolution Basin, entering Kings Canyon National Park along the John Muir Trail corridor through country that has drawn mountaineers and wilderness travelers for generations.
This is not a beginner's trip. Nearly 10,000 feet of cumulative elevation gain, multiple creek crossings, exposed alpine terrain, and unpredictable mountain weather demand strong physical conditioning, solid wilderness skills, and experience with navigation. Prepared backpackers get a lot in return: granite peaks reflected in clear alpine lakes, flower-filled meadows beneath high ridgelines, and long stretches of High Sierra backcountry with very few other people.
The loop works equally well in either direction. Starting from North Lake and crossing Piute Pass first follows a gentler gradient, while starting at South Lake via Bishop Pass puts the steepest climbing early, when packs are heaviest. Most backpackers pick the North Lake start for the gradual approach to Evolution Valley.
Wilderness permits are required year-round for all overnight trips, with a competitive quota system in effect May 1 through November 1. The Inyo National Forest manages permits for both trailheads through Recreation.gov. 60% of each day's quota is released exactly 6 months in advance, and the remaining 40% is released 2 weeks before the entry date at 7:00 AM Pacific Time.
Popular summer weekends book out within minutes of the 6-month release. For weekend trips in July through September, be ready to reserve the moment slots open, or keep your dates flexible. Weekday permits and shoulder season dates (late June, September) generally have better availability.
Fees are a $6 non-refundable reservation fee plus a $5 per person recreation fee. Maximum group size is 15 people, with a daily quota of 30 people for Piute Pass and similar limits for Bishop Pass. You can print permits at home starting one week before your trip; no ranger station check-in is required unless you need to rent gear.
Bear canisters are mandatory in Dusy Basin and the Bishop Pass area, and strongly recommended for the entire route. The White Mountain Ranger Station in Bishop (798 N Main Street, 760-873-2500) rents canisters if you don't own one.
Campfires are prohibited above 10,000 feet in Kings Canyon National Park (which covers most of the loop's midsection), including all areas north of the Glacier Divide and above 10,400 feet south of it. Bring a backpacking stove, since wood fires aren't an option for most of this route. Camp at least 100 feet from lakes, streams, and trails, and avoid setting up on fragile vegetation.
Late July through late September has the most reliable weather and trail conditions. All three passes hold significant snow well into summer, and crossing them while steep snow slopes are still exposed requires an ice axe and crampon skills. In heavy snow years the snowpack can persist through late July. In lighter years some backpackers attempt the route by late June, but expect difficult navigation and potentially dangerous creek crossings.
Early to mid-August is the sweet spot: the passes are generally clear, creek crossings have dropped from spring torrent levels, and afternoon thunderstorms, while common, have not yet turned into September's first winter weather. Mosquitoes, at their worst in late June and July, have largely died off by August, though they can still be fierce in certain meadows and near lakes during evening hours.
September suits experienced backpackers willing to gamble on weather. Days stay warm, bugs are minimal, autumn colors turn the high basins golden, and the trails are noticeably quieter. The tradeoff is cold nights (expect freezing temperatures) and early season snowstorms that can arrive without warning. Come prepared for winter conditions after mid-September.
Monsoon moisture occasionally pushes into the Sierra from the south in July and August, bringing daily afternoon thunderstorms. Evolution Basin and Muir Pass are particularly exposed during electrical storms, with virtually no shelter. Plan to cross high passes in early morning and be off them by noon to reduce lightning risk.
Water is abundant throughout the route. The trail follows or crosses streams and lakes nearly continuously; you'll rarely go more than an hour without passing a source. Evolution Creek, the Middle Fork Kings River through LeConte Canyon, and the many alpine lakes in Evolution Basin, Dusy Basin, and the Bishop Pass corridor are reliable year-round.
The bigger concern is not availability but crossing difficulty. Evolution Creek is the hardest ford, particularly in early season when snowmelt swells the current. The standard crossing near the valley entrance can be thigh-deep in June and July. Many backpackers continue 800 feet upstream to a meadow ford where the creek spreads wider and shallower. Bring sandals or light shoes for creek crossings, and fully extended trekking poles for stability in swift water. By August most crossings are straightforward, but always scout them before committing.
Treat all water. Giardia and other pathogens are present even in clear-looking alpine streams.
There is no resupply on route. Bishop, 15-20 miles from either trailhead, is the supply hub, with full services: grocery stores (Vons, Manor Market), outdoor gear shops, restaurants, gas stations, and motels. Stock up before heading to the trailheads; there is nothing at North or South Lake beyond parking and campgrounds.
Creek crossings demand respect, especially in early season high water. Evolution Creek has claimed lives. If a crossing looks dangerous, it probably is. Wait until morning, when overnight cold reduces glacial melt, scout upstream or downstream for a better spot, or be prepared to turn back.
Lightning and exposure are serious risks at high elevations. Muir Pass and Evolution Basin sit above treeline with nowhere to hide during thunderstorms. The stone Muir Hut at the pass summit gives wind protection but no safety from lightning; do not shelter there during storms. Watch weather patterns carefully and plan to cross passes before midday, when thunderstorms typically build.
Altitude sickness affects some backpackers on this route. You'll sleep above 10,000 feet most nights and cross passes near 12,000 feet. Ascend gradually if possible, stay hydrated, and know the symptoms: headache, nausea, dizziness, and unusual fatigue. Most people acclimatize within a day or two, but severe cases require immediate descent.
Bears are present but generally not aggressive, and proper bear canister use prevents problems. Store all food and scented items in your canister whenever it's not being actively used, and don't leave packs unattended, even for short breaks. Black bears here haven't developed the aggressive canister-rolling behavior seen in some other Sierra zones, but they're smart and opportunistic.
Snow lingering on north-facing slopes and passes into July can obscure the trail, so GPS or map-and-compass skills become essential when crossing snowfields. The passes themselves are not technically difficult when snow-free, but they can require ice axes and proper technique when snow covered.
Both trailheads sit roughly 15-20 miles west of Bishop via Highway 168 (West Line Street). From Bishop, drive west on paved Highway 168 for 15 miles to the South Lake Road junction. For South Lake, continue on Highway 168 (fully paved) for about 7 miles to the large South Lake parking area at the end of the road. For North Lake, turn right on North Lake Road at the Lake Sabrina junction and continue 2 miles on a road that starts paved and transitions to well-maintained gravel/dirt. North Lake parking is 0.5 miles below the campground trailhead, so you'll need to carry packs uphill or have someone shuttle them.
The nearest major airport is Reno-Tahoe International (RNO), about 3 hours north. Eastern Sierra Regional Airport (BIH) in Bishop has seasonal service to San Francisco and Denver via United Express, convenient but on a limited schedule. Mammoth Yosemite Airport (MMH), 45 minutes north, has seasonal flights from Southern California.
No public shuttle currently connects the trailheads. If hiking the loop with one vehicle, you'll need to arrange private shuttle service or hitchhike the 13-mile road distance between trailheads. Several private shuttle operators serve the area, though East Side Sierra Shuttle appears to have closed recently. Ask at the White Mountain Ranger Station for current shuttle recommendations, or arrange rides through High Sierra Topix forums, where backpackers often coordinate transportation.
Two-car shuttles work well for groups: drop one vehicle at your exit trailhead, drive together to the start, and retrieve the second car when you finish.
Parking at both trailheads is free but can fill completely on summer weekends. South Lake has more spaces and easier access. North Lake requires parking downslope from the campground trailhead, adding a short walk with a full pack. Roads typically open May through November depending on snow.
Campsite strategy matters. Evolution Lake at the north end has excellent camping among scenic granite and is generally preferable to the higher, more barren lakes like Sapphire and Wanda. That said, camping at Wanda Lake's north end gives unmatched views of the basin's cirque walls, worth the exposure if the weather is stable. In Evolution Valley proper, sites near McClure Meadow and Colby Meadow provide flat terrain with easy water access, though mosquitoes can be fierce in July.
Dusy Basin on the Bishop Pass side has spectacular camping among alpine tarns, but wind exposure can be brutal. Look for sites tucked among boulders for wind protection.
Most backpackers complete the loop in 4-6 days. Stronger hikers can push it in 4, but 5-6 days allows for layover days and more relaxed mileage. A typical 5-day itinerary: North Lake to Hutchinson Meadow (8 miles), Hutchinson to the Evolution Lake area (11 miles), Evolution Lake to Little Pete Meadow via Muir Pass (9 miles), Little Pete to Dusy Basin (10 miles), Dusy Basin to South Lake (11 miles).
Start early each day, especially when crossing passes. This gets you over high terrain before afternoon storms build, and the morning light on the peaks is exceptional for photography. Evolution Basin, the Muir Hut at sunrise, and Bishop Pass looking back toward the Inconsolable Range rank among the Sierra's most photogenic landscapes.
Fall colors peak late September into early October around the lakes, particularly North Lake, which is known for aspen stands reflecting in the water at sunrise. If you're planning a September trip primarily for colors, monitor conditions; peak typically hits late in the month.
Bring microspikes if venturing before late July, and always carry the Ten Essentials. Weather in the High Sierra can shift from bluebird sunshine to snow squalls in hours. Down jacket, rain gear, extra layers, navigation tools, and headlamp are non-negotiable regardless of forecast.
Pick your trailheads, choose campsites, and build a day-by-day itinerary. Hikeset tracks your gear, meals, and group so nothing gets left behind.
Start PlanningFree account. No credit card needed.
Hikeset Beta