The Old Settlers Trail is one of the longest and most historically rich trails in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, offering backpackers a 15.9-mile point-to-point journey through the heart of Appalachian settlement history. Unlike the park's high-elevation ridgeline routes, this trail meanders between 1,500-2,300 feet, following old wagon roads through the valleys where hundreds of farming families once lived. The trail features more historical remnants than any other in the park—chimneys, stone walls, cemeteries, and home sites from the early 1900s when this area supported schools, churches, and general stores.
This is a trail for experienced backpackers who appreciate solitude, historical exploration, and don't mind navigating overgrown sections and numerous creek crossings. The route gains 3,451 feet of cumulative elevation through four major climbs and descents, typically requiring 8-10 hours of hiking time when done as a thru-hike. Most backpackers split the journey into two days, camping at backcountry campsite #33 near the halfway point.
Great Smoky Mountains National Park requires advance backcountry permits for all overnight trips. Reservations open 30 days before your start date at midnight Eastern Time through smokiespermits.nps.gov. Permits cost $8 per person per night with a $40 per person maximum. Book early during peak season (April-May and September-October) as popular campsites fill quickly.
Key regulations include: - Maximum 3 consecutive nights at any campsite - No consecutive nights at certain sites (including shelter 113) - Maximum group size of 8 people - All food and scented items must be hung on cable systems at campsites—bear canisters are not required or recommended - Dogs are prohibited on all park trails - Parking tags required for vehicles parked over 15 minutes ($5 daily, $15 weekly, $40 annual via recreation.gov—must be printed and displayed)
Illegal activities include approaching bears or elk within 50 yards and camping outside designated backcountry sites.
Optimal months: Late April through May and September through early November offer the best combination of comfortable temperatures (60-75°F), reliable water, and manageable crowds.
Spring (April-May): Peak wildflower season with spectacular spring ephemerals blooming from late March into early May. Temperatures are cooler and less humid than summer, but expect higher precipitation and muddy trail sections. Creek crossings run full and require caution after heavy rain.
Summer (June-August): Hot and humid at lower elevations with afternoon temperatures often exceeding 90°F. Daily afternoon thunderstorms are common—plan to finish hiking or reach camp by early afternoon to avoid lightning exposure. Water is plentiful but heat and humidity make this the most challenging season. Backcountry permits are harder to secure due to peak visitor demand.
Fall (September-early November): Crisp mornings and evenings with comfortable daytime highs in the 60s and overnight lows in the 40s. Mid-October brings spectacular fall color and peak crowds—book permits well in advance. Water sources remain reliable through early fall but may diminish in late October.
Winter: Backcountry campsites close during winter months. While the trail remains open for day hiking, winter backpacking is not permitted.
Water is abundant along the Old Settlers Trail with more than a dozen creek crossings. Major water sources include Bird Branch, Copeland Creek, Snakefeeder Branch, Soak Ash Creek (crossed multiple times), Ramsey Creek (four crossings), Texas Creek, Webb Creek, Dunn Creek, and Maddron Creek. Backcountry campsite #33 has reliable water from a nearby stream year-round.
Treat all water before drinking. Seasonal reliability is excellent spring through fall, though late-season hikers (late October-November) may find some smaller tributaries running low. After heavy rain, do not attempt creek crossings if water is overflowing—several crossings lack footbridges and require rock-hopping or wading.
Resupply: This is a short trail with no practical resupply options mid-route. The nearest towns are: - Gatlinburg (Tennessee side, near Greenbrier trailhead): Full-service tourist town 6 miles from the trailhead with grocery stores, gear shops, restaurants, and lodging. Gas stations available. - Cosby (Tennessee side, eastern trailhead): Small community with limited services, campground, and ranger station. Basic supplies available. - Cherokee, North Carolina: Located on the southern side of the park with grocery stores, restaurants, and lodging, but not convenient to this trail corridor.
Most backpackers carry all food for the 1-2 day trip.
Creek crossings: The trail's most significant hazard. With over a dozen crossings including major fords of Ramsey Creek (4x), Texas Creek, and Webb Creek, hikers must be prepared for wet feet. Some crossings feature footbridges or single-log bridges, but many require rock-hopping or wading. Never attempt crossings during high water after storms—water levels can rise rapidly and create dangerous conditions.
Black bears: The park hosts approximately 1,500 bears (2 per square mile). Bear activity peaks May through August. While attacks are extremely rare, proper food storage on cable systems is mandatory. Never approach bears within 50 yards—violations carry fines and potential arrest. Beggar bears conditioned to human food face euthanasia, so never feed wildlife.
Venomous snakes: Two species present—Timber Rattlesnakes and Northern Copperheads. Encounters are uncommon and no fatal snakebites have been recorded in the park. Watch footing near rocks and logs. Snakes typically avoid human contact.
Wild boar: Feral pigs inhabit the park and can be aggressive if cornered. They are fast and unpredictable. Give them wide berth and avoid surprising them on trail.
Navigation challenges: Trail marking is inconsistent with some sections overgrown and confusing. Thick foliage, downed trees, and indistinct tread at access points have led hikers astray. Carry a detailed map and GPS device. Trail junctions are generally well-marked but mid-sections can be challenging to follow.
Thunderstorms: Spring and summer bring daily afternoon thunderstorms, with lightning risk on exposed sections. Start early to reach camp or finish before afternoon storm development. Tornadoes are possible but rare.
Flood damage: Parts of the Greenbrier area (including Porters Creek Trail and campsites 31-33) suffered flood damage in July 2022 but have since reopened. Check current conditions with rangers before starting.
Greenbrier (western) trailhead: From Gatlinburg, drive 6 miles east on US-321 to Greenbrier Road (just before the Little Pigeon River bridge). Turn right at the Great Smoky Mountains National Park entrance sign. Drive 3.1 miles to Ramsey Prong Road on the left, then turn left and drive 0.1 mile to the trailhead parking on the left. Parking is free with a park parking tag. Roads are paved and accessible to all vehicles.
Cosby/Maddron Bald (eastern) trailhead: The Old Settlers Trail begins 1.2 miles up the Maddron Bald Trail, accessed from a small parking area off US-321 between Cosby and Gatlinburg. Parking is extremely limited and not recommended for overnight vehicles. Strongly consider using shuttle service rather than parking here.
Nearest airports: - Knoxville (McGhee Tyson Airport): 45 miles from Gatlinburg - Asheville Regional Airport: 65 miles from Cherokee entrance
Shuttle services: Multiple shuttle companies operate in the area including AAA Hiker Service (based in Cosby, 865-XXX-XXXX) and Great Smoky Mountain Eco Tours. Shuttles will drop you at one trailhead, park your vehicle at the other, or provide pickup service. Cost varies by distance but typically runs $40-80. This is the recommended logistics solution for point-to-point trips.
Parking tag requirement: All vehicles must display a printed parking tag for stays exceeding 15 minutes. Purchase online at recreation.gov ($5 daily, $15 weekly, $40 annual) and print before arrival. Digital versions are NOT accepted.
Start from Greenbrier: Most backpackers prefer starting at the Greenbrier (western) trailhead rather than Maddron Bald due to better parking and more gradual initial terrain. Ending at Cosby also avoids the additional 1.2-mile road walk on Maddron Bald Trail.
Historical exploration: Allow extra time to explore settlement remnants. Key features include old fireplaces, stone walls, the rusted Model A car near Porters Creek, cemeteries, a smokehouse, and the old Hiking Club Cabin. Observant hikers will find chimneys, stoves, and home sites throughout the route—look carefully as many are reclaimed by forest.
Early starts essential: For one-day thru-hikers, begin at dawn. The 8.5-9.5 hour hiking time doesn't include breaks, navigation challenges, or afternoon thunderstorm delays. Two-day trips allow for leisurely pacing and historical exploration.
Trekking poles mandatory: The numerous creek crossings, uneven terrain, and slippery rocks make poles essential for balance and safety. They're especially valuable on wet log bridges.
Long pants recommended: Trail overgrowth includes significant poison ivy. Long pants reduce exposure and protect against scratches from brush.
Water shoes strategy: Some backpackers carry lightweight camp shoes or water shoes for creek crossings to keep primary boots dry, though with so many crossings, most accept wet feet and use well-draining trail runners instead.
Campsite #33 logistics: Located at mile 9.3 near Redwine Creek, this popular site offers level tent platforms and reliable water. The site has multiple areas (33A, 33B) near an old fallen fireplace. Book well in advance during peak season.
Navigation prep: Download offline maps before arrival as cell coverage is unreliable. Print a detailed trail map showing junction points. The trail can be confusing where overgrown—don't rely solely on trail blazes.
Bear cable practice: If you've never used a backcountry bear cable system, watch instructional videos before your trip. Proper technique prevents frustration in camp and protects wildlife.
Weather contingency: Monitor forecasts and be prepared to postpone if heavy rain is predicted. Flooded creek crossings can trap backpackers or force dangerous crossing attempts. Check current conditions with rangers at the Greenbrier station before starting.
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