The Howard Eaton Trail through Yellowstone's Canyon area is a moderate backcountry route connecting a chain of alpine lakes: Cascade Lake (2.6 miles), Grebe Lake (4.5 miles), Wolf Lake (6.3 miles), and Ice Lake (10.7 miles). This section crosses lodgepole pine forest, wet meadows, and marshland in grizzly habitat, and it stays quiet despite sitting minutes from the park's busy Canyon Village area. The trail works well as a 2-3 day out-and-back or through-hike, with designated campsites at each lake. Anglers have a particular reason to come: Grebe Lake was recently restored with Arctic grayling and westslope cutthroat trout as part of a native fish refuge project.
The route follows mostly flat terrain with minimal elevation gain (around 1,100 feet total), so it is within reach of any backpacker comfortable with remote travel. Expect muddy conditions and aggressive mosquitoes through July, then prime hiking from mid-August through September. The scenery is quiet interior forest and wetland rather than dramatic alpine terrain.
A backcountry permit is required year-round for overnight camping and must be obtained through Yellowstone's reservation system. The process has three windows:
Early Access Lottery: March 1-20, applications cost $10 (non-refundable). If selected, you receive a 15-20 minute window on a predetermined date to book your campsites.
Regular Reservations: Open April 26 through October 31 on Recreation.gov for sites not claimed in the lottery. Permits cost $5 per person per night plus a $10 reservation fee ($25 total for a solo two-night trip). The $50 Yellowstone Annual Backcountry Pass waives the nightly fee if you plan multiple trips.
Walk-In Permits: Available at backcountry offices for unreserved sites, though popular lakes like Grebe often book months ahead.
Camping is permitted only at designated sites (4G2, 4G3, 4G4, 4G5 at Grebe Lake, plus sites at Cascade, Wolf, and Ice Lakes). Three-night maximum per campsite. Campfires are allowed only in established fire rings, so bring a stove as backup. Group size limits vary by site but generally cap at 8-12 people. Dogs, bikes, and motorized vehicles are prohibited.
Fishing requires a separate Yellowstone fishing permit. All native fish, including Arctic grayling, must be released unharmed. Float tubes require a boating permit.
For detailed campsite information and reservation help, call the Canyon Backcountry Office at (307) 344-2160.
Mid-August through mid-September is the best window. Snow typically melts by early July, but trails stay wet and muddy through the month, and mosquito populations peak. The NPS specifically warns of "many biting insects" through July on this route. By mid-August, trails dry out, bugs decline sharply, and weather stabilizes.
Early October can be a good choice for solitude and fall colors, but prepare for cold nights and possible snow. The first significant snowfall usually arrives in mid-to-late September. Shoulder season (late June, early October) means fewer permit conflicts but greater weather uncertainty.
Daytime summer temperatures range from 70-80°F, dropping to the 40s at night. Afternoon thunderstorms are common July-August. Lightning risk is moderate given the forested terrain, though exposed ridges near Observation Peak warrant caution. Pack rain gear and monitor forecasts daily.
Water is abundant but requires treatment. The trail passes three named water sources plus Cascade, Grebe, Wolf, and Ice Lakes. Treat all water; giardia is present park-wide. The lakes are reliable, but muddy shorelines and waterfowl populations make a filter with pre-filter, or chemical treatment, preferable to UV.
Underground springs feed Ice Lake year-round. Grebe Lake's outlet at 2.8 miles from the Grebe Lake junction provides flowing water. Cascade Lake has an accessible shoreline. Seasonal streams cross the route, but do not count on them after mid-August.
There is no resupply along the trail. Canyon Village (0.25 miles from the trailhead) has a general store with limited backpacking food: granola bars and instant meals, not dehydrated dinners or specialty items. West Yellowstone (14 miles from the park's west entrance) has better selection but requires leaving the park. Plan to carry all food for your trip.
Mail drops are not practical for this short route. Most backpackers resupply in the gateway towns (Gardiner, West Yellowstone, Cody) before entering the park.
Grizzly bears are the primary concern. The Canyon area sees regular grizzly activity, and the trail passes through prime habitat. Carry bear spray in a hip holster, not in your pack. Travel in groups of three or more; 91% of Yellowstone bear injuries since 1970 occurred to solo hikers or pairs. Make noise in dense forest sections and around blind corners. Food storage poles are provided at all campsites; hang food 10 feet high and 4 feet from the poles. Check with the backcountry office for recent bear activity before departing.
Navigation can be tricky. The trail fades in meadow sections where animal trails create confusion. Bring a map, compass, and downloaded GPS track. The route is generally well-cairned near the lakes but less obvious in forest.
Mud and stream crossings define July travel. One trip report mentioned "wet feet will be the norm" in early season, with at least one ford still requiring wet crossings by late August. Waterproof boots help, but many backpackers switch to trail runners and accept wet feet.
Mosquitoes and biting flies are relentless through July. Bring a head net, DEET or picaridin, and treat clothing with permethrin. August is dramatically better.
Weather swings are unpredictable at 8,000+ feet elevation. Snow has fallen on July 4th. Always pack insulation and rain protection regardless of the forecast.
The Howard Eaton Trailhead sits 0.25 miles west of Canyon Junction on the Norris-Canyon Road (Grand Loop Road). From Canyon Village, drive west toward Norris; the trailhead is a small pullout on the right with parking for 4-5 vehicles. Arrive early during peak season or expect to park along the road.
Nearest Airports: - Bozeman Yellowstone International (BZN): 100 miles, 2 hours to the West Entrance or 90 miles to the North Entrance (Gardiner). Best year-round option with the most flights. - Jackson Hole (JAC): 72 miles, 1.5 hours to the South Entrance through Grand Teton. Scenic but pricier. - Cody/Yellowstone Regional (COD): 53 miles, 1 hour to the East Entrance. Limited flights. - West Yellowstone (WYS): 3 miles from the West Entrance, but seasonal service only (limited summer flights).
From any airport, you will need a rental car; no public transit serves the park interior.
Trailhead Access: The Norris-Canyon Road typically opens in mid-to-late April and closes in early November. Spring opening depends on snowpack, so confirm road status on the NPS website before traveling. Canyon Village has gas, groceries, lodging, and a visitor center.
Shuttles: Yellowstone tested a pilot shuttle at Canyon Village in 2021, but no permanent service exists. This is a car-dependent park. For through-hikes, you will need to arrange a vehicle shuttle between trailheads or hitchhike (common and generally safe in summer).
Parking: The trailhead pullout fills quickly. Overflow parking is available at Canyon Village, which adds 0.5 miles of road walking.
Campsite 4G2 at Grebe Lake sits right on the south shore, closest to the trailhead at 3 miles total. 4G3 is on the northwest corner, slightly farther but more private. Both book fast in the lottery. Wolf Lake and Ice Lake sites see less pressure and make good alternatives if Grebe is full.
Bring trekking poles for the muddy sections and for balance on log crossings. Camp shoes are worth the weight, since your boots will be caked in mud by evening.
Float tubes are popular at Grebe Lake for fishing, but require a park boating permit ($5 for 7 days, $10 annual). Arctic grayling average 10-14 inches. Fish early morning or evening when rises are visible.
Timber wolves occasionally pass through, and you may hear howling at night, especially near Grebe. They pose no danger to campers.
Wildflowers peak in early July along the meadow edges: lupine, Indian paintbrush, elephant head. The tradeoff is peak bug season.
Cell service is nonexistent. Bring a GPS communicator (inReach/Garmin) for emergencies.
The ice blocks that gave Ice Lake its name were harvested in the early 1900s to supply Norris Geyser Basin concessions. Underground springs keep the lake cold year-round; swimming is bracing but possible in August.
Skip this trail during the September elk rut if you are noise-sensitive. Bulls bugle aggressively near the meadows, especially at dawn.
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