The High Sierra Trail is a 72-mile trans-Sierra backpacking route from Crescent Meadow in Sequoia National Park to the summit of Mount Whitney and down to Whitney Portal. Built in the 1930s, it climbs from the Giant Sequoia groves through alpine meadows, over the Great Western Divide at Kaweah Gap (10,700 feet), and across the Kern River canyon before joining the John Muir Trail for the final push to Whitney's summit at 14,505 feet.
The scenery is the reason people come: waterfalls pouring down granite walls, clear alpine lakes under jagged peaks, and long views across the Sierra high country. The route passes through everything from dense conifer forest to alpine tundra, with chances to see black bears, marmots, and bighorn sheep. Most hikers finish in 6-8 days, though strong hikers doing long mileage can do it in as few as 4-5.
Unlike a day hike, the HST demands careful planning for high-altitude camping, food storage, and navigation across exposed terrain. Its west-to-east orientation means you acclimatize gradually as elevation increases, though the final ascent to Whitney still gives many hikers altitude sickness. This is a trail for backpackers comfortable with wilderness travel, self-sufficiency, and sustained elevation gain totaling over 13,000 feet.
Wilderness permits are required year-round and operate on a strict quota system during peak season (typically May 23 to September 27). The Crescent Meadow trailhead has a daily quota of 30 people, with 20 spots available for advance reservation and 10 walk-up permits.
Reservations open exactly six months before your start date at 7:00 AM Pacific Time on Recreation.gov. For example, to start August 10, you must reserve on February 10. Competition is fierce; be ready to refresh your browser before 7:00 AM and complete your application within 15 minutes. Permit fees are $15 per group plus $5 per person during quota season. Walk-up permits may be obtained starting at 1:00 PM the day before your trip at the Lodgepole Visitor Center, but don't count on availability during July and August.
After September 23, permits are available via free self-registration. Outside quota season, you still need a permit but won't face daily limits.
Bear canisters are mandatory throughout Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. Most hikers carry all food for the 6-8 day trip in approved canisters (BearVault BV500, Garcia Backpackers' Cache, or similar IGBC-approved models). The trail also has bear boxes at designated camps including Nine Mile Creek, Bearpaw Meadow, Hamilton Lake, Big Arroyo Junction, Kern Hot Springs, Junction Meadow, and Wallace Creek. These can supplement canister space if you camp at those specific sites.
Campfire restrictions are altitude-based: fires are prohibited above 9,000 feet until you reach the Kern drainage, then prohibited above 10,000 feet. In practice, campfires are only allowed at Bearpaw Meadow, Big Arroyo, Moraine Lake, and the Kern River/Junction Meadow areas. Bring a lightweight backpacking stove for all cooking.
Camping within 100 feet of any water source or trail is prohibited. Group size limits apply; check current regulations, as they vary by zone. Waste disposal follows Leave No Trace principles: pack out all trash and toilet paper, or burn toilet paper completely in remote areas where fires are permitted.
July through early September has the best conditions, with July and August seeing the most traffic. Early July (typically after July 4) is when the snowmelt-fed waterfalls run strongest and the meadow wildflowers peak, though afternoon thunderstorms are frequent and creek crossings run higher.
Late August through mid-September brings more stable weather, fewer mosquitoes, and smaller crowds once school resumes. Water sources remain reliable through September in most years, and afternoon thunderstorms diminish. Nighttime temperatures drop significantly; expect below-freezing temps at higher elevations. The quota period ends around September 23, which makes permits easier to get, though snow can arrive by late September at higher elevations.
Avoid June unless it's an exceptionally low snow year. Snow lingers on north-facing slopes above 10,000 feet, particularly around Kaweah Gap and the Whitney approach. The trail's exposed "catwalk" sections carved into cliffsides become treacherous when icy. Creek crossings during peak snowmelt in June can be dangerously deep and swift; hikers have been swept away and killed attempting normally shallow fords. If attempting a June trip, bring microspikes, an ice axe, and experience with snow travel and self-arrest.
High snow years (like 2017 and 2023) can push ideal conditions into late July or even August. Check the Sequoia trail conditions page and recent trip reports before finalizing dates. Snow bridges over creeks can ease crossings when thick and firm in early morning, but they become hazardous as they thin in afternoon heat, so time your crossings accordingly.
Water is abundant along the High Sierra Trail, even in low-snow years. Most creek crossings and alpine lakes provide reliable sources roughly every 1-3 miles. In early season (June-early July) there are streamlets everywhere; late season still has on-trail water approximately every 3 miles.
Key water planning notes:
Carry a 2-liter capacity minimum, with 3-liter capacity recommended for the Guitar Lake to Whitney stretch. All water sources require treatment: filter, chemical treatment, or boiling.
No resupply options exist on trail. At 72 miles over 6-8 days, the HST is short enough to carry all food without resupply. Most backpackers fit 6-7 days of food in one bear canister, supplemented by bear boxes at designated camps. Ultralight backpackers can squeeze 8 days into a BearVault BV500 with careful planning.
The nearest towns are Three Rivers/Visalia (west side, near Crescent Meadow) and Lone Pine (east side, near Whitney Portal). Lone Pine has groceries, gear shops, restaurants, and motels, useful for post-trail recovery but not mid-trip resupply. Some hikers arrange pack stock resupply through commercial packers, though this is expensive and unnecessary for most.
River crossings pose the most serious hazard, particularly during snowmelt (June through mid-July). Normally ankle-deep creeks turn into thigh-deep torrents of icy water with a powerful current. Creek flows peak in late afternoon after a full day of warm temperatures and intense sunshine, so plan major crossings for early morning when flows are lowest. Several hikers have drowned in the Sierra attempting high-water crossings. If a crossing looks dangerous, wait, find an alternate crossing point upstream, or turn back.
Altitude sickness affects approximately 43% of Whitney hikers, with symptoms including headaches, nausea, fatigue, and dizziness appearing above 12,000 feet. The HST's gradual elevation gain aids acclimatization compared to day-hiking Whitney from the portal, but the summit at 14,505 feet is still hard on many people. Arrive 2-3 days early to camp at Whitney Portal (8,400 feet) or Cottonwood Lakes (10,000 feet) and take acclimatization hikes. Older hikers and females statistically experience lower AMS rates. The only cure is descent, so don't push for the summit if symptoms worsen. Consider skipping Whitney and exiting at Guitar Lake or Crabtree Meadow if altitude becomes a problem.
Lightning and thunderstorms are frequent on July and August afternoons, typically building between 1-3 PM and lasting until 4-5 PM. The trail crosses multiple exposed ridgelines and passes where you're the tallest object. Plan your daily mileage to cross high points (especially Kaweah Gap and the Whitney summit) by noon. Get off exposed terrain when thunderheads build. If caught in a storm, avoid isolated trees, rock outcroppings, and water; crouch low on insulating pads in forested areas if possible.
Wildfire damage from the 2020 Rattlesnake Fire burned several miles of forest along the Kern River. Expect extensive burn scars, fallen trees, and soot-covered terrain, with 4+ hours of hiking through blackened landscape. The 2021 KNP Complex Fire also affected portions of the trail. Dead standing trees ("widow makers") pose falling hazards, especially in wind. Check current fire restrictions and active fire status before departure.
Black bears are common and increasingly bold, particularly in high-traffic areas. Bears have learned to associate backpackers with food rewards. Use bear canisters properly and never leave them unattended near camp. Store scented items (toothpaste, sunscreen, lip balm) with food. Make noise while hiking, especially in dense forest and near water sources where sound is masked. Bear encounters are common but attacks are extraordinarily rare; make yourself large and loud if a bear approaches.
Exposure and falls on the trail's cliffside "catwalk" sections are dangerous when icy or snow-covered. These carved granite ledges have steep drop-offs with minimal protection. In early season or after fresh snow, these sections require extreme caution or may be impassable without mountaineering skills.
Crescent Meadow Trailhead (Western Start)
From Three Rivers, take Generals Highway into Sequoia National Park (entrance fee required). Continue past Giant Forest Museum, then turn onto Crescent Meadow Road. The road ends at the trailhead parking area after 2.6 miles, passing under Tunnel Log en route.
Summer parking restrictions: On weekends the road closes to private vehicles, and only the free park shuttles can access Crescent Meadow. Even on weekdays, the small parking lot fills by 9 AM. Arrive before 8 AM or use the free shuttle from Giant Forest Museum. The shuttle typically operates late May through early September but stops running around the second week of September.
Seasonal road closures: Crescent Meadow Road closes with snow (typically October through late May) and is accessible only by skiing, snowshoeing, or hiking in winter.
Permits must be picked up at Lodgepole Visitor Center (not at the trailhead) starting at 1 PM the day before your trip or the morning of departure before 10 AM.
Whitney Portal (Eastern Terminus)
From Lone Pine on Highway 395, take Whitney Portal Road west for 13 miles, climbing from 3,700 feet to 8,400 feet on steep grades and switchbacks. The road is paved but narrow with big drop-offs. Standard vehicles are fine; no high clearance needed. Parking fills early in summer, so expect overflow parking and competition for spots.
Whitney Portal Campground has first-come, first-served sites and makes a good base for pre-trip acclimatization.
Shuttle Services & Transportation
The trailheads are approximately 5.5 hours apart by car (driving around the Sierra). Most hikers arrange a shuttle:
Alternatively, coordinate a key swap with another group hiking the opposite direction: meet mid-trail and exchange car keys. Some hikers hitchhike between Lone Pine and Visalia, though this takes significant time and luck.
Nearest airports: Fresno (FAT) is closest to Crescent Meadow at 2.5 hours; Reno-Tahoe (RNO) is 4.5 hours from Whitney Portal. Los Angeles (LAX) is 4-5 hours from either trailhead.
Camping strategy: Hamilton Lake is the most popular camp, with an alpine setting, well-developed sites, and bear boxes, so expect crowds. For solitude, push past Hamilton to Precipice Lake or camp before Hamilton at Mehrten Meadow or Buck Creek. Kern Hot Springs has camping near natural hot pools (though they're often disappointingly tepid). Junction Meadow provides flat, spacious sites in a quiet Kern River valley setting. Many hikers prefer to camp at bear box sites to minimize bear canister volume, but this limits flexibility.
Summit timing: Plan to leave your final camp (typically Guitar Lake or Trail Camp) by 3-4 AM for Whitney's summit. This gets you off the exposed summit and below 13,000 feet before afternoon thunderstorms build around 2-3 PM. The sunrise view from Whitney is worth the brutal alpine start. Descending the 99 switchbacks after summiting is knee-punishing; trekking poles help significantly.
Direction matters: Hiking west-to-east (Crescent Meadow to Whitney Portal) is strongly preferred. You gain elevation gradually over 6-7 days, which helps acclimatization for Whitney's summit. The reverse direction involves punishing climbs out of Kern Canyon and worse acclimatization for the already-hard Whitney start.
Bearpaw High Sierra Camp: This tent cabin camp at mile 11.5 serves hot meals and has showers and comfortable beds ($400-500/night, reservations required). Day guests can purchase lunch. The adjacent backpacker campground has bear boxes and piped water. Some hikers book a night at Bearpaw to break up the trip with a comfortable respite; others skip it to keep the trip fully in the backcountry.
Water treatment speed: With frequent water sources, there's no need to carry large volumes. Use a fast-filtering system (Sawyer Squeeze, Katadyn BeFree) rather than a slow pump filter. Chemical treatments (Aquamira, chlorine dioxide) work but require 30-minute wait times.
Mosquito timing: July and early August bring intense mosquitoes, especially around Hamilton Lake and Precipice Lake. Bring permethrin-treated clothing, headnets, and DEET. Late August and September are virtually mosquito-free.
Great Western Divide crossing: Day 3 (for most itineraries) crosses Kaweah Gap and traverses below the Kaweah peaks to Precipice Lake, widely considered the trail's scenic highlight. Start early so you have time to linger at Precipice Lake before afternoon thunderstorms.
Whitney alternatives: If weather, altitude, or time constraints rule out the Whitney summit push, you can exit early at Crabtree Meadow or Wallace Creek via alternate trails connecting to Horseshoe Meadow or Cottonwood Pass. This saves a day and avoids the brutal 6,100-foot descent from Whitney to the portal.
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