The Elkhorn Crest National Recreation Trail is a 22-28 mile ridgeline traverse along the highest peaks in Oregon's Blue Mountains. Designated a National Recreation Trail in 1979, it runs at an average elevation of 7,200 feet through sub-alpine forest and grassland, with long views of the Baker Valley, the distant Wallowa Mountains, and six alpine lakes. Few Oregon trails deliver this much high scenery with so little foot traffic, which makes it a good pick for backpackers who want dramatic mountains without the crowds of the state's more famous routes. Expect abundant wildflowers in July, frequent mountain goat encounters, and exposed ridgeline hiking with real lightning risk. Most backpackers complete the traverse in 3 days/2 nights, hiking south-to-north from Marble Pass to Anthony Lakes to keep the elevation gain down.
No advance permit reservations are required. The trail passes through North Fork John Day Wilderness, which requires a free self-issued wilderness permit at the trailhead: fill out the form, drop one copy in the registration box, and carry the other with you. Group size is limited to 12 people. Day use at trailheads requires a $5 per vehicle fee or a Northwest Forest Pass ($30 annual). Bear canisters are not required but strongly recommended; if you skip the canister, hang food 10-12 feet high and 6-10 feet from the tree trunk. Campfires are allowed in established fire rings when no Public Use Restrictions are in effect. Check current fire restrictions with the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest Baker City Ranger District (541-523-6391) before your trip, since seasonal restrictions often prohibit campfires during summer months. Mechanized travel (bicycles, OHVs) is prohibited in wilderness areas but allowed on certain trail sections outside the wilderness boundary.
June through September, with July-August the most reliable stretch. The trail clears of snow 1-2 weeks earlier than the nearby Wallowas and is often accessible by late June in normal years. The southern Marble Pass access road, however, may not be passable until mid-July due to snow and rough conditions. July brings peak wildflower displays across the meadows and ridgelines. August has the most stable weather, with warm days (mid-80s to low-90s) and cool nights, though afternoon thunderstorms remain a concern on the exposed ridgeline. September brings cooler mornings (40s-50s), pleasant afternoons, less lightning risk, and golden fall color, but first snows can arrive by late September. Water sources become less reliable in late summer: the Sardine Gulch stream runs strong through August, but other seasonal sources may dry up. Contact the Baker City Ranger District for current snow and water conditions.
Water is scarce on the ridgeline itself. The only reliable perennial source directly on the trail is Sardine Gulch Creek at mile 12.5 from Marble Pass. All other water requires 0.5-1.5 mile detours down to alpine lakes: Twin Lakes (0.5 miles off trail), Summit Lake (1.5 miles), Dutch Flat Lake, and Lost Lake. One reliable spring flows near the Summit Lake junction. Treat all water. Plan to carry 3-4 liters between sources and out of camp each morning for the dry trail sections; this is not a route where you can casually refill. Lake water quality may decline in late summer. Confirm current water availability with the ranger station before departing.
There are no on-trail resupply options. Baker City (29-35 miles from trail access points) is the only full-service resupply, with multiple grocery stores, outdoor gear shops (The Trailhead, Ace Hardware sporting goods section), and restaurants. Sumpter is closer to the trail but carries only minimal convenience store items, not enough for a full resupply. Mail drops are not practical for a trail this short. Most backpackers carry all food for the 3-day trip from the start.
Lightning exposure is the trail's most serious hazard. The route follows an exposed ridgeline where, as one trip report puts it, there is "no hiding up there on that ridge." Multiple trip reports describe running from lightning strikes or hiking toward thunderstorms. Afternoon storms develop rapidly during summer, and you are extremely vulnerable on this high, open terrain. Start hiking early (by 6-7am) to reach camp before afternoon storms build. If caught in lightning, descend immediately to lower elevations or the alpine lake basins. Monitor forecasts and be prepared to bail to Anthony Lakes or hunker down for a day if storms threaten.
Some narrow sections carry physical exposure, with steep drop-offs and what reports describe as "fairly high exposure and narrow tread." Technical hiking skills are not required, but sure footing is essential. The trail also gains and loses significant elevation repeatedly along the ridgeline.
Mountain goats are abundant and remarkably bold, especially around Twin Lakes and Summit Lake. They are attracted to salt and will chew on sweaty gear, packs, boots, and clothing. Bring all gear inside your tent at night. If goats approach, back away slowly and give them space; if they persist, wave your arms and make noise. Keep dogs leashed, since goats can be aggressive toward dogs.
Black bears are present, though encounters are less common than goat encounters. Hang food 10-12 feet high or use a bear canister. There are no grizzly bears in the area.
The Marble Pass access road (Forest Road 6510) is one of Oregon's roughest: very steep, narrow, rocky, and poorly maintained. High-clearance 4WD is strongly recommended, and some hikers report needing true 4WD to make it. The road may not be clear until mid-July. Plan 60+ minutes driving from Baker City. Many hikers start from Anthony Lakes instead, which has paved access, or arrange a shuttle.
Anthony Lakes Trailhead (north end): From Baker City, drive 10 miles north on Highway 30 to Haines, then turn left onto Anthony Lake Highway and follow it 25 miles to Anthony Lakes Recreation Area. Access is paved and suitable for all vehicles. There is a large parking area, vault toilets, and a developed campground nearby. Alternatively, take I-84 to Exit 285 (North Powder) and follow signs 21 miles west on paved Road 73.
Marble Pass Trailhead (south end): From Baker City, head north on Highway 30 to Pocahontas Road, turn left (west), drive 7 miles to Marble Creek Road (Forest Road 6510), then turn left and climb 9 rough, steep miles to the ridgetop. The road deteriorates significantly at the halfway point near an old mine, and high-clearance 4WD is required beyond it. Rustic parking at the trailhead is limited. The road may be impassable until mid-July.
Nearest airport: Boise, Idaho (115 miles from Baker City). Portland is 350 miles away. Rental cars are available in both cities.
Shuttle services: The Trailhead in Baker City may offer limited shuttle service (check current availability at 541-523-1086). It historically ran Fridays only, $100/person from Anthony Lakes to Marble Pass; book at least 24 hours in advance. Some private individuals also run shuttles, so search locally or ask at The Trailhead. Driving time between trailheads is approximately 1 hour.
Hike south-to-north (Marble Pass to Anthony Lakes) to reduce overall elevation gain. This is the preferred direction for most backpackers.
Start each day by 6-7am to reach your destination camp before afternoon lightning risk peaks. The exposed ridgeline gives you no protection from storms.
Classic 3-day itinerary: Day 1 - Marble Pass to Twin Lakes (8 miles, camp at Upper or Lower Twin Lake). Day 2 - Twin Lakes to Summit Lake (11 miles, camp at Summit Lake). Day 3 - Summit Lake to Anthony Lakes via Angell Pass (9 miles). This spacing puts water at each camp.
Carry extra water capacity (4+ liters) and load up at every opportunity. The long ridgeline sections between lakes are completely dry.
Bring a wide-brimmed hat, sunscreen, and sun-protective clothing. The ridgeline means intense sun all day with minimal shade.
Twin Lakes basin is the scenic highlight but also the most crowded area. Upper Twin Lake (7,700 ft) generally has better camping than Lower Twin Lake. Summit Lake sees fewer visitors and puts you alone beneath towering peaks.
Protect your gear from mountain goats: bring everything inside your tent at night, hang packs from trees during the day if possible, and don't leave boots, trekking poles, or clothing outside. Goats are persistent and destructive.
Check fire restrictions before departing, since summer often brings campfire bans. Bring a reliable backpacking stove and don't count on campfires.
Cell service is nonexistent. Carry a paper map, compass, or GPS device. The trail is generally well-marked but can be difficult to follow in fog on the open ridgeline.
The Trailhead in Baker City is your last stop for fuel canisters, forgotten gear, maps, and updated trail conditions. Call ahead (541-523-1086) about shuttle arrangements if needed.
Consider staying at Anthony Lakes Campground the night before or after your hike. It is conveniently located and has water and amenities.
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