The Collegiate West is an 80-mile high alpine section of both the Colorado Trail and Continental Divide Trail that traverses the western slope of the Sawatch Range through the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness. Added to the Colorado Trail in 2012, it is widely considered one of the most scenic stretches of trail in Colorado. Long miles above treeline give unobstructed views of several 14,000-foot peaks, including Huron Peak, the Three Apostles, Missouri Mountain, Mount Belford, and Mount Oxford.
This is the harder alternative to the Collegiate East route: 19,800 feet of elevation gain across 83 miles, never dropping below 8,000 feet and frequently climbing above 12,000 feet. The trail stays close to the Continental Divide, which means big alpine scenery and constant exposure to weather. It suits experienced backpackers who can navigate above treeline, start early to beat afternoon thunderstorms, and stay self-reliant on a remote route with few bail-out options.
The route runs from Twin Lakes (southwest of Leadville) south to Monarch Pass (southwest of Salida), connecting two major highway access points with resupply nearby. Rock cairns mark the alpine sections well, and water is plentiful during the summer months.
No advance permits are required for the Collegiate West. Free self-issuing wilderness permits are available at trailheads entering the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness: fill out the form, leave half at the station, and carry the other half with you. The USFS encourages voluntary registration for search and rescue purposes.
Regulations include: - Maximum group size of 15 people or a combination of 25 people and pack/saddle animals - Dogs must be leashed at all times (except working stock dogs or hunting dogs during legal hunting) - Camp at least 100 feet from lakes, streams, and trails - Campfires prohibited at Lake Ann and discouraged above treeline (krummholz trees are centuries old and critical to alpine ecosystem survival) - Pack out all waste following Leave No Trace principles - Food storage required to prevent wildlife conflicts (bear hang minimum, Ursack or bear canister recommended for protection from marmots, rodents, and bears)
Check current fire restrictions with the Pike-San Isabel National Forest before your trip. Seasonal Stage 1 or Stage 2 restrictions may prohibit campfires entirely during dry periods.
Late July through early September has the most reliable conditions. The Collegiate West holds more snow than the Collegiate East because it sits higher and more exposed, and it typically remains impassable until late June or early July. Snow lingers on north-facing slopes and passes well into summer; hikers have reported snowbanks near Lake Ann Pass even in August.
July and August bring the warmest weather and the most reliable water, but afternoon thunderstorms build almost daily. Plan to cross passes and finish exposed sections before noon. Wildflowers peak in mid-July through early August across the alpine meadows.
Many hikers consider early September the best window: mosquitoes disappear after a few freezing nights, afternoon thunderstorms come less often and hit less hard, aspen and willow turn color at lower elevations, and the summer crowds have thinned. Prepare for cold nights (freezing temperatures are common) and possible early-season snowstorms.
Snow returns between late September and mid-October, and the route becomes dangerous without winter mountaineering skills. The trail is generally snow-covered and inaccessible from late October through May or June.
Water sources are plentiful during summer, with numerous streams and alpine lakes along the route. Even in September, water remains abundant on most sections. Filter or treat everything.
Dry sections to note: - From upper Lake Ann to Monarch Crest Store: 8 miles with no reliable water - Miles 8.9-12.9 in the Lake Ann Pass area can be dry depending on season - Start and end of some segments may require carrying extra capacity
The longest dry stretches typically stay under 8 miles, but late-season hikers should check current water reports, since high-elevation sources dry up faster than lower streams.
Resupply options: - Twin Lakes General Store (northern terminus): Full resupply at a hiker-friendly store that accepts resupply boxes (USPS, FedEx, UPS). Average-sized boxes are held free, $5 for large or multiple packages. The store gives an 8% discount on food/beverages and 4% on gear. Open late May to early October. - Buena Vista (mile ~35 via Cottonwood Pass/Highway 306): Better positioned for Collegiate East hikers, but reachable from the Collegiate West. Full grocery options at City Market and LaGree's. Hitchhiking from Cottonwood Pass can be slow on this quieter road. - Monarch Pass/Highway 50 (southern terminus): Monarch Crest Gift Shop has limited resupply options. Monarch Spur RV Park is about 1 mile east. - Salida: Most hikers resupply here, 22 miles from Monarch Pass. Full services including Safeway, Walmart, an outdoor outfitter (Salida Mountain Sports), post office, restaurants, hotels, and a laundromat. Best reached by hitchhiking from Highway 50.
Lightning exposure: The most serious hazard. Long above-treeline sections during the July-August thunderstorm season leave nowhere to hide. Afternoon storms bring lightning, hail, and strong winds on a near-daily schedule. Start hiking at dawn so you can cross passes and clear exposed sections before noon, when storms typically build. If storm clouds approach while you are above treeline, descend immediately to lower terrain.
Weather exposure: With most of the route above 10,000 feet and long sections above 12,000 feet, weather changes fast. Rain can turn to snow even in July, temperatures can drop quickly, and strong winds create dangerous wind chill. Carry insulating layers and waterproof protection, and be ready for below-freezing nights throughout the season.
Remote terrain with few bailouts: The Collegiate West is significantly more remote than the Collegiate East, with minimal road crossings over 80+ miles. If weather deteriorates or an emergency arises, realistic exit options are few. Hikers need navigation skills, first aid knowledge, and emergency preparedness.
Navigation above treeline: The route is well-marked with rock cairns through the alpine sections, but visibility can drop to near-zero in storms or fog, and cairns are hard to find in whiteout conditions. Carry navigation tools (GPS, map, compass) and know how to use them.
River crossings: The Middle Fork of the South Arkansas River requires a crossing that can be difficult during spring runoff (June-early July) or after heavy rain. Early morning crossings, when water is lower, are safer. Other creek crossings are generally straightforward except during peak flow.
Altitude: Starting elevations around 9,500-10,000 feet and frequent climbs above 12,000 feet can cause altitude sickness in anyone not properly acclimatized. Allow time to adjust before attempting this route, stay hydrated, and know the symptoms of altitude illness.
Wildlife: Black bears are present but encounters are uncommon. Mountain lions inhabit the region and are most active at dusk and dawn. Marmots and ground squirrels aggressively chew through packs and food bags left unattended, so store all food and scented items in bear-resistant containers or proper bear hangs well away from camp.
Northern Terminus - Twin Lakes: - From Denver International Airport: 2.5 hours (100 miles) west via I-70 to Copper Mountain, then south on Highway 24 to Highway 82 east - From Colorado Springs: 2 hours northwest via Highway 24 - Twin Lakes is accessible year-round along Highway 82 between Leadville and Independence Pass (though the pass section closes October-May) - Parking available at Twin Lakes Dam and trailhead areas - Twin Lakes General Store is a central hub for hikers
Southern Terminus - Monarch Pass: - Located on Highway 50 at 11,312 feet - Large parking area at Monarch Crest Store/gondola lot - About 22 miles west of Salida, 45 miles east of Gunnison - Highway 50 remains open year-round (unlike many Colorado high passes)
Nearest airports: - Denver International Airport (DEN): 2-2.5 hours, major international hub - Aspen-Pitkin County Airport (ASE): 45 minutes from Twin Lakes, but seasonal (CO-82 east section closed October-May) - Colorado Springs Airport (COS): 2 hours to Twin Lakes - Leadville-Lake County Airport: North America's highest public airport (9,934 ft), private aircraft only
Shuttle services: The Colorado Trail Foundation maintains a list of shuttle services and trail angels, available through the request form on their website. Arrange rides well in advance. Local services include: - Contact Colorado Trail Foundation for current shuttle driver list - Salida Chamber of Commerce hiker webpage lists Monarch Pass shuttle options - Private shuttle companies operate in the Leadville-Twin Lakes area
Hitchhiking is possible but can be slow, especially on Highway 306 near Cottonwood Pass. Colorado drivers generally know the Colorado Trail and are often willing to help hikers.
Road conditions: All major highway access points are paved and fine for standard vehicles. Forest roads to some mid-route access points may require high clearance, especially early season.
Timing your hiking day: Start by 5:30-6:00 AM when crossing passes or hiking exposed sections. Afternoon thunderstorms typically build between noon and 2 PM. Early starts put you below treeline or at camp by early afternoon, and that daily rhythm is essential for safety on the Collegiate West.
Camp selection strategy: Scout for camping spots before reaching passes. The section from mile 8.9 to 11.9 near Lake Ann Pass has limited camping, so plan around it. Lake Ann itself has good camping but a campfire ban. The Texas Creek drainage has numerous excellent sites with water throughout. Above 11,500 feet, firewood is scarce or nonexistent, so bring enough stove fuel.
Water carry: Even though water is generally plentiful, carry 2-3 liter capacity for the 8-mile dry stretch before Monarch Crest Store and the other dry sections. Late-season hikers should carry extra capacity as high-elevation sources dry up.
Acclimation: Don't underestimate the altitude. Consider spending a night or two in Leadville (10,200 ft) or camping at lower elevations before starting. The constant high elevation wears on you more than brief summit pushes do.
Weather monitoring: Check forecasts before starting and ask locals about recent afternoon storm patterns. Some hikers carry a small weather radio. Building cumulus clouds mid-morning are your sign to move quickly toward lower terrain.
Gear recommendations: Bring a warmer sleep system than you would use at lower elevations; nights regularly dip to freezing even in August. A waterproof jacket and pants are essential. Trekking poles help on the frequent steep sections and at creek crossings. Consider microspikes for early season snow crossings.
Notable viewpoints: Hope Pass (12,548 ft) looks out over the Collegiate Peaks, including Missouri Mountain, Mount Belford, Mount Oxford, and Huron Peak. Lake Ann Pass crosses above 12,500 feet with views to match, and the descent from Hope Pass into the Clear Creek Valley is one of the best stretches of the route.
14er opportunities: Huron Peak (14,012 ft) is accessible from the trail and considered one of the best 14er options for anyone wanting to bag a summit during the hike. It is a Class 2 route from near the trail.
Peak wildflowers: Alpine wildflowers fill the meadows and basins from mid-July through early August. September brings aspen gold to the lower-elevation sections.
Trail condition updates: Check the Colorado Trail Foundation website and Facebook page before departure for current conditions, closures, fire restrictions, and recent trail reports. The Continental Divide Trail Coalition also maintains current information for this shared section.
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