The Enchantments Traverse is Washington's most coveted backpacking permit, and for good reason. This 17-18 mile point-to-point route through the Alpine Lakes Wilderness features granite peaks, alpine lakes that shimmer turquoise blue, and fields of golden larches in October. The trail gains roughly 6,500-7,000 feet and loses 5,000 feet, with the crux being Aasgard Pass—a brutal 2,200-foot scramble up loose talus in under a mile. This is not a beginner trail. You'll need strong fitness, scrambling experience, and solid route-finding skills. Most backpackers spend 2-4 days, though the trail can be hiked in one very long day if you're exceptionally fit. The Core Enchantment Zone above Aasgard Pass is where you'll find the namesake alpine lakes basin—a true high-alpine wonderland that attracts photographers, peak-baggers, and goat-dodging backpackers from around the world.
Overnight permits are required May 15 through October 31 and must be obtained in advance through Recreation.gov. Day-use permits are free and self-issued at trailheads. The permit system is brutally competitive—less than 10% of applicants succeed in the annual lottery, and Core Zone permits have roughly a 2% success rate.
Permit options: - Advanced Lottery (Feb 15 - Mar 1): 75% of permits allocated. $6 non-refundable application fee, $5 per person per night if awarded. Results posted around March 15. - Daily Lottery (May-Oct): Small number of permits for next-day entry. Must apply 7-10am PT via Recreation.gov mobile app while physically within one mile of Wenatchee River Ranger District in Leavenworth. Pick up permit in person by 4pm same day. - First-Come, First-Served: Unclaimed lottery dates released on Recreation.gov—these disappear fast.
The Enchantments are divided into five camping zones: Eightmile/Caroline, Stuart, Colchuck, Core Enchantments, and Snow. Your permit dictates where you camp each night, though Core permits allow camping in any zone. Groups must camp together. Maximum group size is 8 people. One permit per person per season. Permit holder must be 18+ and carry a signed, printed permit—cell phone screenshots are not valid.
Key regulations: - No dogs or pets (service animals only) - No campfires above 5,000 feet or within 0.5 miles of any lake - Maximum 14 consecutive days - Core Zone quota: 16 people/day (advanced lottery) + 8 people/day (daily lottery)
Full regulations: https://www.fs.usda.gov/r06/okanogan-wenatchee/recreation/enchantments-overnight-permits
Mid-July through September is the prime window when snow has melted and weather is most stable. The season breaks down like this:
May-June: Snow, ice, avalanche danger. Aasgard Pass requires ice axe, crampons, and mountaineering experience. Lakes in the Core Zone don't thaw until July. Snow bridges over creeks hide hazards. Two hikers have died on Aasgard Pass in recent years due to early season conditions. Not recommended unless you have serious alpine experience.
Mid-July through August: Optimal for warm weather and reliability. Trails mostly snow-free by mid-July, though patches persist in the Core Zone until mid-August. Lakes below 6,000 feet thaw in May; Core Zone lakes thaw in July. Peak wildflower season. This is when most permits are issued and when conditions are safest for scramblers without winter skills.
September: Excellent shoulder season with cooler temps and fewer bugs, but snow can return late in the month. Days are shorter—plan accordingly.
Late September to early October: Golden larch season. The first two weeks of October are peak for seeing alpine larches turn brilliant gold before dropping their needles in late October. This is the most photographed and desired time to visit, but early season snowstorms can hit without warning. Expect cold nights and icy mornings.
Late October: Permit season ends October 31. High risk of winter storms knocking down larch needles and dumping snow.
Water is abundant. You'll pass dozens of alpine lakes and streams throughout the traverse. Most campsites are near lakes. However, there can be long stretches between sources—don't assume water is always 100 yards away. One trip report mentioned running out of water 4 miles from the end. Carry at least 2 liters and know where your next refill is. Filter all water.
No resupply on trail. This is an 18-mile traverse, so most backpackers carry 2-4 days of food. Leavenworth is your resupply town, located 15 miles northeast of the trailheads. Der Sportsman is the local outdoor shop for last-minute gear (filters, fuel, etc.). Leavenworth also serves as a PCT resupply stop, so it's well-stocked with hiker-friendly services, hotels, restaurants, and a Safeway. No mail drops needed for a standard Enchantments trip.
Aasgard Pass: This is the crux. Nearly 2,000 feet of gain in 0.75 miles, scrambling over loose talus and boulders with no single defined trail. You need route-finding experience, agility, and balance. The grade averages 38% and is near-vertical in sections. Early season (May-June), it's a legitimate mountaineering objective with avalanche danger, crevasses, and rockfall as sun warms the snowpack. Even in summer, loose rock makes this sketchy—watch for falling rocks from hikers above you.
Mountain goats: The most common wildlife hazard. Goats are habituated to humans and aggressively seek salt from urine. Do NOT pee near camp or trail—goats will show up within hours and can become aggressive, especially during fall mating season. A hiker was killed by a mountain goat in Olympic NP in 2010. Pee into rock cracks where goats can't reach. Keep 150 feet distance. If approached, stand your ground, yell, wave arms, throw small rocks.
Black bears: Present but rarely seen, mostly at lower elevations. Bears are not a concern in the Core Zone, and bear canisters are not required (though Ursacks or rock caches are smart for rodent/goat protection). No trees above Aasgard Pass for hanging food.
Lightning and exposure: Almost 100% sun exposure in the alpine. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer months. Summit Aasgard Pass and cross the Core Zone early in the day—aim to be off exposed ridges by noon to early afternoon. Thunderstorms typically develop late afternoon/evening.
Altitude: The trail exceeds 7,000 feet. Some hikers experience altitude sickness if not acclimatized.
Route-finding: The Core Zone has well-maintained trails, but some paths are faint over granite slabs. Aasgard Pass has no single trail—it's a boulder scramble requiring constant route-finding.
The Enchantments Traverse is a point-to-point hike requiring a shuttle or two vehicles. Trailheads are accessed via Icicle Creek Road from Leavenworth.
Stuart Lake Trailhead (west terminus, typical start): From Leavenworth, drive west on US-2 to milepost 99, turn south onto Icicle Creek Road. Drive 8.5 miles, turn left onto Eightmile Road (FR 7601), a dirt road. Continue 3.8 miles to large parking lot and trailhead. Starting here reduces total elevation gain by ~2,000 feet compared to starting at Snow Lakes. Parking is extremely limited—arrive early or park miles away on the road (one side only, as posted).
Snow Lakes Trailhead (east terminus, typical finish): From Leavenworth, turn left onto E Leavenworth Road just after Safeway. Drive 3.4 miles, turn left on Icicle Road, drive 2.3 miles to parking lot on left.
Shuttle services: - Loop Connector Shuttle: Most popular option. Departs Snow Lakes parking lot at 4am, 5am, or 6am. $25 per person, 30-minute ride to Stuart/Colchuck trailhead. Service runs late March through October. Book online: loopconnectorshuttle.com - Leavenworth Shuttle & Taxi: Multiple daily departures starting 5:15am from Snow Lakes. 2-person minimum. Reserve 24 hours in advance.
Nearest airports: Seattle-Tacoma (SEA), 2.5 hours. Spokane (GEG), 3 hours.
Climb Aasgard Pass early: Start your ascent at dawn. The scramble is grueling with a full pack, and you want to cross the Core Zone before afternoon thunderstorms build. Descending Aasgard is even sketchier than ascending—most people hike Stuart → Snow for this reason.
Camp selection in Core Zone: If you have a Core permit, scout your campsite early. Popular lake basins (Isolation, Perfection, Leprechaun) fill up fast. You're allowed to camp anywhere in the Core, so explore and find a spot with water access and wind protection. Campsites are on granite—bring a sleeping pad with good insulation.
Rodent/goat food protection: No bear canisters required, but you need to protect food from goats and rodents. Ursacks work well, or cache food under rocks far from camp (200+ feet). No trees in the Core for hanging.
Trekking poles essential: Aasgard Pass destroys knees. Poles are mandatory for the descent and extremely helpful on the ascent.
Fitness check: This is a serious alpine endurance challenge. If you're planning a thru-hike in 1-2 days, train with 8+ mile hikes and 3,000+ feet of gain for several months beforehand. The Enchantments is only slightly easier than the Grand Canyon rim-to-rim as a day hike.
Larch season crowds: Early October is stunning but mobbed. If you scored a larch-season permit, expect company at every lake. The first Saturday in October is typically peak color.
Day-use permits: Free and self-issued at trailheads. Day hikers can visit the Core Zone but must exit by nightfall. Many attempt the thru-hike in one day—12 to 20 hours depending on fitness. This is an extreme challenge.
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