The North Lake to South Lake Loop stands among the Sierra Nevada's most celebrated backpacking routes, offering 51-55 miles of alpine splendor through some of California's most pristine wilderness. This challenging loop crosses three mountain passes—Piute Pass (11,423'), Muir Pass (11,955'), and Bishop Pass (11,972')—while traversing the legendary Evolution Valley and Evolution Basin. The route enters Kings Canyon National Park via the John Muir Trail corridor, passing through landscapes that have captivated mountaineers and wilderness travelers for generations.
This is emphatically not a beginner's trip. With nearly 10,000 feet of cumulative elevation gain, multiple creek crossings, exposed alpine terrain, and unpredictable mountain weather, the loop demands strong physical conditioning, solid wilderness skills, and experience with navigation. But for prepared backpackers, the rewards are extraordinary: towering granite peaks reflected in crystalline alpine lakes, flower-filled meadows beneath soaring ridgelines, and the profound solitude of the High Sierra backcountry.
The loop works equally well in either direction. Starting from North Lake and crossing Piute Pass first follows a gentler gradient, while beginning at South Lake via Bishop Pass hits the steepest climbing early when packs are heaviest. Most backpackers prefer the North Lake start for the gradual approach to Evolution Valley.
Wilderness permits are mandatory year-round for all overnight trips and operate under a competitive quota system May 1 through November 1. The Inyo National Forest manages permits for both trailheads through Recreation.gov, with 60% of daily quotas released exactly 6 months in advance and the remaining 40% released 2 weeks before the entry date at 7:00 AM Pacific Time.
Popular summer weekends book out within minutes of the 6-month release window. For weekend trips in July through September, be prepared to reserve the instant slots become available or remain flexible with your dates. Weekday permits and shoulder season dates (late June, September) generally have better availability.
Permit fees include $6 non-refundable reservation fee plus $5 per person recreation fee. Maximum group size is 15 people, with daily quotas of 30 people for Piute Pass and similar limits for Bishop Pass. You can print permits at home starting one week before your trip—no ranger station check-in required unless you need to rent gear.
Bear canisters are mandatory in Dusy Basin and the Bishop Pass area, and strongly recommended for the entire route. The White Mountain Ranger Station in Bishop (798 N Main Street, 760-873-2500) rents canisters for those who don't own one.
Campfires are prohibited above 10,000 feet in Kings Canyon National Park (which covers most of the loop's midsection), including all areas north of the Glacier Divide and above 10,400 feet south of it. Bring a backpacking stove—wood fires aren't an option for most of this route. Camp at least 100 feet from lakes, streams, and trails, and avoid setting up on fragile vegetation.
Late July through late September offers the most reliable weather and trail conditions. All three passes hold significant snow well into summer, and crossing them with steep snow slopes exposed requires ice axes and crampon skills. In heavy snow years, snowpack can persist through late July. In lighter years, adventurous backpackers sometimes attempt the route by late June, but expect challenging navigation and potentially dangerous creek crossings.
Early to mid-August hits the sweet spot: passes are generally clear, creek crossings have mellowed from spring torrent levels, and afternoon thunderstorms—while common—aren't yet bringing September's first winter weather. Mosquitoes, the scourge of late June and July, have largely died off by August, though they can still be fierce in certain meadows and near lakes during evening hours.
September offers spectacular conditions for experienced backpackers willing to gamble on weather. Days remain warm, bugs are minimal, autumn colors tinge the high basins golden, and trails feel noticeably less crowded. The tradeoff: nights get cold (expect freezing temperatures), and early season snowstorms can arrive without warning. Come prepared for winter conditions after mid-September.
Monsoon moisture occasionally pushes into the Sierra from the south in July and August, bringing daily afternoon thunderstorms. Evolution Basin and Muir Pass are particularly exposed during electrical storms, with virtually no shelter. Plan to cross high passes in early morning and be off them by noon to minimize lightning risk.
Water is abundant throughout the route. The trail follows or crosses streams and lakes nearly continuously—you'll rarely go more than an hour without passing a water source. Evolution Creek, the Middle Fork Kings River through LeConte Canyon, and the numerous alpine lakes in Evolution Basin, Dusy Basin, and the Bishop Pass corridor provide reliable water year-round.
The most significant consideration isn't availability but crossing difficulty. Evolution Creek presents the most challenging ford, particularly early season when snowmelt swells the current. The standard crossing near the valley entrance can be thigh-deep in June and July. Many backpackers continue 800 feet upstream to a meadow ford where the creek spreads wider and shallower. Bring sandals or light shoes for creek crossings, and fully extended trekking poles for stability in swift water. By August most crossings are straightforward, but always scout them before committing.
Treat all water. Giardia and other pathogens exist even in pristine-looking alpine streams.
No resupply options exist on route. Bishop, 15-20 miles from either trailhead, is the supply hub. The town offers full services: grocery stores (Vons, Manor Market), outdoor gear shops, restaurants, gas stations, and motels. Stock up before heading to the trailheads—there's nothing at North or South Lake beyond parking and campgrounds.
Creek crossings demand respect, especially in early season high water. Evolution Creek has claimed lives. If a crossing looks dangerous, it probably is—wait until morning when overnight cold reduces glacial melt, scout for better crossings upstream or downstream, or be prepared to turn back.
Lightning and exposure pose serious risks at high elevations. Muir Pass and Evolution Basin sit above treeline with nowhere to hide during thunderstorms. The stone Muir Hut at the pass summit offers wind protection but provides zero safety from lightning—do not shelter there during storms. Watch weather patterns carefully and plan to cross passes before midday when thunderstorms typically build.
Altitude sickness affects some backpackers on this route. You'll sleep above 10,000 feet most nights and cross passes near 12,000 feet. Ascend gradually if possible, stay hydrated, and recognize the symptoms: headache, nausea, dizziness, and unusual fatigue. Most people acclimatize within a day or two, but severe cases require immediate descent.
Bears are present but generally not aggressive. Proper bear canister use prevents problems. Store all food and scented items in your canister whenever it's not being actively used. Don't leave packs unattended, even for short breaks. Black bears in this area haven't developed the aggressive canister-rolling behavior seen in some other Sierra zones, but they're smart and opportunistic.
Snow lingering on north-facing slopes and passes into July can obscure the trail. GPS or map-and-compass skills become essential when crossing snowfields. The passes themselves, while not technically difficult when snow-free, can require ice axes and proper technique when snow covered.
Both trailheads sit roughly 15-20 miles west of Bishop via Highway 168 (West Line Street). From Bishop, drive west on paved Highway 168 for 15 miles to the South Lake Road junction. For South Lake, continue on Highway 168 (fully paved) for about 7 miles to the large South Lake parking area at road's end. For North Lake, turn right on North Lake Road at the Lake Sabrina junction and continue 2 miles on initially paved road that transitions to well-maintained gravel/dirt. North Lake parking is 0.5 miles below the campground trailhead—you'll need to carry packs uphill or have someone shuttle them.
Nearest major airport is Reno-Tahoe International (RNO), about 3 hours north. Eastern Sierra Regional Airport (BIH) in Bishop offers seasonal service to San Francisco and Denver via United Express—convenient but limited schedule. Mammoth Yosemite Airport (MMH), 45 minutes north, has seasonal flights from Southern California.
No public shuttle currently connects the trailheads. If hiking the loop with one vehicle, you'll need to arrange private shuttle service or hitchhike the 13-mile road distance between trailheads. Several private shuttle operators serve the area, though East Side Sierra Shuttle appears to have closed recently. Ask at the White Mountain Ranger Station for current shuttle recommendations, or arrange rides through High Sierra Topix forums where backpackers often coordinate transportation.
Two-car shuttles work well for groups: drop one vehicle at your exit trailhead, drive together to the start, and retrieve the second car upon completion.
Parking at both trailheads is free but can fill completely on summer weekends. South Lake has more spaces and easier access. North Lake requires parking downslope from the campground trailhead, adding a short walk with full pack. Roads typically open May through November depending on snow.
Campsite strategy matters. Evolution Lake at the north end offers excellent camping with scenic granite surroundings and is generally preferable to the higher, more barren lakes like Sapphire and Wanda. That said, camping at Wanda Lake's north end provides unmatched views of the basin's cirque walls—worth the exposure if weather is stable. In Evolution Valley proper, sites near McClure Meadow and Colby Meadow provide flat terrain with easy water access, though mosquitoes can be fierce in July.
Dusy Basin on the Bishop Pass side offers spectacular camping among alpine tarns, but wind exposure can be brutal. Scout for sites tucked among boulders for wind protection.
Most backpackers complete the loop in 4-6 days. Stronger hikers can push it in 4, but 5-6 days allows for layover days and more relaxed mileage. A typical 5-day itinerary: North Lake to Hutchinson Meadow (8 miles), Hutchinson to Evolution Lake area (11 miles), Evolution Lake to Little Pete Meadow via Muir Pass (9 miles), Little Pete to Dusy Basin (10 miles), Dusy Basin to South Lake (11 miles).
Start early each day, especially when crossing passes. Not only does this get you over high terrain before afternoon storms build, but morning light on the peaks is extraordinary for photography. Evolution Basin, the Muir Hut at sunrise, and Bishop Pass looking back toward the Inconsolable Range rank among the Sierra's most photogenic landscapes.
Fall colors peak late September into early October around the lakes, particularly North Lake which is renowned for aspen stands reflecting in the water at sunrise. If you're planning a September trip primarily for colors, monitor conditions—peak typically hits late in the month.
Bring microspikes even in August if venturing before late July, and always carry the Ten Essentials. Weather in the High Sierra can shift from bluebird sunshine to snow squalls in hours. Down jacket, rain gear, extra layers, navigation tools, and headlamp are non-negotiable regardless of forecast.
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