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River to River Segment 1 - E'Town to Garden of the Gods
20.9 mi
Mile 0.0 – 20.9
4 Campsites
The River to River Trail offers 160 miles of rugged backpacking across southern Illinois' Shawnee National Forest, connecting the Ohio River at Elizabethtown to the Mississippi River at Grand Tower. This is one of the Midwest's best-kept secrets for long-distance hiking, passing through five designated wilderness areas, diverse terrain ranging from limestone bluffs and creek-carved canyons to wetlands and hardwood forests, and showcasing Illinois geology at its finest. The trail is ideal for backpackers seeking a challenging thru-hike closer to home or those wanting to test their skills before tackling longer trails like the Appalachian Trail.
Expect a patchwork journey combining wooded singletrack (about 50% of the route), significant road walking, and shared use with equestrians. The terrain is surprisingly rugged for Illinois, with 15,291 feet of cumulative elevation gain over rocky, root-filled trails punctuated by creek crossings and steep climbs to scenic bluff overlooks. This isn't a manicured path—be prepared for muddy conditions from horse traffic, navigation challenges in spots, downed trees (especially on western sections hit by storms), and substantial stretches on paved and gravel roads.
No permits or reservations required. The Shawnee National Forest allows free primitive camping year-round throughout the forest, with a 14-day maximum stay in one location. Camp at least 150 feet from trails and water sources (lakes, rivers, streams, creeks). Equestrian camping is prohibited in designated wilderness areas. Campfires must use dead and down wood only—cutting live vegetation is strictly prohibited. Check for county or forest-wide burn bans before your trip, which can prohibit all fires during dry conditions.
Pets are allowed but must be leashed. No camping is permitted in the forest's 80 designated natural areas, along lake shores, or directly on trails. Overnight parking is allowed at trailheads and along forest roads.
For current regulations and burn ban status, contact Shawnee National Forest headquarters at (618) 253-7114 or visit https://www.fs.usda.gov/r09/shawnee.
Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) are optimal, offering moderate temperatures and spectacular scenery—spring wildflowers and fall foliage transform the hardwood forests into vibrant displays. These are the busiest seasons on the trail.
Fall is generally preferable to spring due to more stable trail conditions. Spring can bring heavy rains that turn horse-trafficked sections into muddy quagmires, making navigation and hiking significantly more difficult. Fall offers drier trails, minimal bugs, and comfortable temperatures.
Avoid summer (July-August) if possible. Southern Illinois heat and humidity are brutal, with temperatures regularly exceeding 90°F. The thick vegetation becomes severely overgrown, making trail-finding difficult and increasing tick and chigger exposure. Water sources are less reliable during dry summer periods. Winter (December-February) is feasible—some experienced hikers prefer December for cooler temperatures and less vegetation—but cold snaps and occasional snow/ice are possible.
Water requires planning and treatment. The trail crosses numerous creeks, streams, and passes several lakes, but all water must be filtered or chemically treated. During periods without rain, many creeks dry up entirely, particularly in summer. The River to River Trail Society's guidebook (available at rivertorivertrail.net) identifies reliable water sources, which is essential pre-trip research. Carry capacity for 2-3 liters between sources and plan water stops carefully.
Resupply options are limited and require hitching or shuttle service:
Most thru-hikers carry 3-5 days of food between resupply points. Mail drops are generally not practical given the rural nature and limited post office access along the route.
Shawnee Guided Tours offers shuttle services for $25 per person—useful for section hiking or resupply runs. Contact them or check the River to River Trail Society website for current shuttle providers willing to help hikers.
Navigation: The trail is not always well-marked, particularly in sections recovering from storm damage. Downloadable GPS tracks are essential. Don't rely solely on blazes—some sections have faded or missing markers. The official River to River Trail Society maps (updated to version 4.0 in December 2022) are critical.
Ticks: This is the trail's most significant hazard. The River to River Trail Society held an entire annual meeting focused on tick safety with a university expert. Ticks are prevalent April-October, with deer ticks (Lyme disease) and lone star ticks (alpha-gal syndrome) both present. Wear permethrin-treated clothing, use DEET, perform thorough tick checks twice daily, and consider long pants tucked into socks despite the heat.
Venomous snakes: Timber rattlesnakes and copperheads inhabit the rocky bluff areas and wooded sections. Both are non-aggressive and typically retreat if given space. Watch where you step and place your hands, especially around rocks and logs.
Poison ivy: Abundant along the trail, particularly in overgrown summer sections. Learn to identify it and give wide berth. Long pants are advisable despite the heat.
Mud and trail conditions: Horse traffic creates deep, uneven ruts that fill with water after rain, making some sections challenging and messy. Western sections have extensive downed trees from wind and ice storms. Spring can be particularly difficult.
Road walking: About half the trail involves walking on roads—paved roads, gravel roads, and forest roads. Some stretches exceed 3 miles on pavement. This is tedious and hard on feet, but road sections often provide access to water at churches and occasional trail magic from locals.
Stream crossings: Numerous creek crossings exist, most minor and rock-hoppable in normal conditions. After heavy rain, some may require wading. No major dangerous river fords are typical.
Nearest airports: - Lambert-St. Louis International Airport (STL) is the largest option, roughly 90-120 minutes from the trail - Williamson County Airport (MWA) in Marion, IL and Cape Girardeau Airport (CGI) in Missouri are smaller regional options closer to the trail
Eastern terminus (Elizabethtown): Free parking is available in Elizabethtown. Park near the sheriff's office rather than the Rose Hotel trailhead to avoid blocking the official trailhead. This is the traditional starting point for eastbound thru-hikers.
Western terminus (Grand Tower/Devil's Backbone Park): Access from Devil's Backbone Park on the Mississippi River.
Popular section hiking trailheads: - Garden of the Gods Backpacker's Parking Lot: One of few locations allowing overnight parking, ideal for the spectacular Garden of the Gods wilderness section - Hitchin Post Trailhead: Allows overnight parking - High Knob Recreation Area: Popular access point with parking
Roads to trailheads are generally passable in standard vehicles. High clearance is not typically required, though some forest roads may be rough.
Arrange shuttles through Shawnee Guided Tours or check the River to River Trail Society website for current shuttle providers and trail angels.
Hike eastbound: Most hikers start at Elizabethtown on the east and head west. The eastern sections have better trail conditions with less storm damage and fewer downed trees than western sections.
Break it into sections: Most backpackers tackle the trail in 1-3 night segments rather than thru-hiking. The Garden of the Gods wilderness section is particularly spectacular for a weekend trip. Section 19 and 20 (Panther Den Wilderness area) offer another excellent 13.4-mile segment.
Realistic daily mileage: Plan for 10-12 miles per day for a comfortable thru-hike (14 days total). The rugged terrain, elevation changes, road walking, and navigation challenges slow you down compared to flatter trails. Experienced, fit hikers can push 15+ miles daily to complete in 10 days.
Download maps and GPS tracks: Cell coverage is spotty to non-existent in many sections. Download the official River to River Trail Society maps and GPS tracks before you start. Don't rely on phone navigation.
Join the Facebook community: The River to River Trail Hikers Facebook group is active and helpful for current trail conditions, water source updates, and connecting with locals who may offer trail magic or shuttles.
Epic campsites in Garden of the Gods: The bluff lines in the Garden of the Gods wilderness section offer stunning viewpoints for camping. The climb is strenuous but the payoff is worth it. There's also an excellent creekside camp where Trail #152B intersects a sharp creek bend.
Expect solitude: This trail sees far less traffic than popular trails. You may go days without seeing another backpacker, though you'll occasionally encounter equestrians, especially near horse camps.
Consider a December thru-hike: Some experienced hikers prefer winter (particularly December) to avoid heat, humidity, ticks, overgrown vegetation, and mud. Pack appropriate cold-weather gear and expect fewer daylight hours.
Community support: Southern Illinois locals are friendly to hikers. Churches along road sections sometimes provide water or snacks to thru-hikers, and you may receive unexpected trail magic. The River to River Trail Society works hard to maintain this trail—consider joining or donating to support their efforts.
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