The Wonderland Trail is a 93-mile circumnavigation of Mount Rainier, gaining and losing 22,000+ feet of elevation as it traverses ridges, river valleys, and alpine meadows. Designated a National Recreation Trail in 1981, it's one of the most sought-after backpacking experiences in the Pacific Northwest. Expect relentless ups and downs—3,000 to 6,000 feet of elevation change per day—through old-growth forests, wildflower-carpeted parklands, and glacial moraines with 25 named glaciers carving the mountain above you.
This trail suits experienced backpackers comfortable with significant daily elevation gain, primitive river crossings, and variable mountain weather. Most hikers complete the loop in 10-14 days, though fit hikers push it in 6-8. The route is well-maintained but demanding: you'll descend to cross glacial rivers, climb back out of valleys, and repeat this pattern around the entire mountain. Every night is spent at designated wilderness camps with bear poles or boxes—no dispersed camping allowed.
Wilderness permits are mandatory year-round and extremely competitive during summer. The permit system has three routes:
Early Access Lottery (recommended): Apply February 10–March 3 for a chance to book permits during a priority window starting March 21. Results announced March 14. This gives you first pick of campsites.
General Release: Remaining permits go live April 25 for the general public. Competition is fierce—roughly 10,000 applicants vie for 600 advance permits annually.
Walk-Up Permits: One-third of permits are held for first-come, first-served issuance at ranger stations, available same-day or day-before your start. Risky but possible, especially on weekdays or shoulder season.
Cost: $10 per person per night (under 15 free) plus $6 reservation fee. Book through Recreation.gov.
Key Rules: - Designated camps only—you must camp where your permit specifies each night - Group size: 5 or fewer for standard sites; parties of 6+ require designated group sites - Fires prohibited in backcountry (stoves only) - Food storage: All food, garbage, and scented items must be hung on provided bear poles or stored in bear boxes at camp - Bear canisters not required (all camps have bear infrastructure) but useful for alpine/cross-country travel - Fire bans common August–September; check current restrictions before departure
Visit the NPS Wilderness Permits page for current regulations.
Late July through mid-September is prime, with August being peak season for good reason.
July: Transitional. Early July often has deep snow at higher elevations and swollen glacial rivers. Late July sees snow retreating, wildflowers beginning, but expect some lingering snow patches and possible missing/damaged log bridges from spring runoff. Ice axe useful if hiking before late July.
August: Best weather, peak wildflowers (early to mid-month), and highest likelihood of snow-free trail. Also peak mosquitoes and maximum competition for permits. Wildfire risk increases late August. This is when most of the 200-250 annual thru-hikers complete the trail.
September: Fewer crowds, diminished bugs, fall foliage and mushrooms replace wildflowers. Cooler nights (expect freezing temperatures), shorter days, and risk of early snow. Mid-September onward offers solitude but requires flexibility for weather.
Snow conditions vary drastically year to year. High-snow years may keep passes closed into early August; low-snow years can make late September feasible. Spray Park and Seattle Park alternative routes often hold snow until late August. Check current conditions at ranger stations before starting.
Water is abundant—every designated camp has a nearby source—but conditions change seasonally.
Water Reliability: Creeks and streams flow reliably through August. By late September, some sources diminish or dry completely. Klapatche Park's Aurora Lake is notoriously unreliable—it's often a tadpole-filled pond or dried mudflat by late summer. If Aurora Lake is dry, the nearest water is St. Andrews Lake, requiring a 1.5-mile round trip. One stretch can reach 8 miles without water late season. Treat or filter all water.
Food Caching: Most hikers cache food to avoid carrying 10-14 days of supplies. The park allows caches at two locations:
Caching Requirements: Use rodent-proof 5-gallon buckets. Mail to: Mount Rainier National Park, White River WIC, 70002 SR 410 East, Enumclaw, WA 98022 (USPS, UPS, FedEx accepted). Hand-deliver or mail at least a week before your start date.
Resupply Towns: Paradise, Longmire, and Sunrise have visitor facilities where you can purchase hot meals but cannot cache food (Paradise is not an official cache location). Nearby towns include Ashford (Nisqually entrance), Enumclaw (northeast), Packwood (southeast), and Elbe—all have groceries and outdoor gear shops like Whittaker Mountaineering in Ashford.
Important Note: Mowich Lake is currently inaccessible due to Fairfax Bridge closure on SR 165. This closure is expected to last years—do not plan to start, end, or resupply at Mowich Lake until further notice.
This trail demands respect. The greatest hazards are glacial river crossings and variable weather.
River Crossings: The most dangerous aspect of the Wonderland Trail. Many crossings use primitive log bridges with or without railings; some require fording. Glacial rivers carry sediment and rolling boulders—falling in can be fatal. Flow varies hourly based on snowmelt and daily temperatures. Cross early morning when flows are lowest (before the day's melt begins). After heavy rain or during peak snowmelt (June–early July), crossings can be impassable. The park replaces washed-out bridges constantly but can't keep up with major events. Mowich River crossing is notoriously challenging and may require scouting upstream for safer crossing points.
Weather: Mountain weather changes rapidly. Expect rain, fog, wind, and possible snow even in August. Freezing nights are common by September. Lightning risk exists on exposed ridges and high passes; avoid lingering on ridges during afternoon thunderstorms (common mid-summer). Visibility can drop to near-zero in fog—navigation skills essential.
Bears: Black bears are present throughout the park. Make noise while hiking, store all food properly on bear poles/boxes at camp, and never leave food unattended. If you encounter a bear on trail, back away calmly while talking to it ("Hey bear!"), and give it space to leave. Do not run. In camp, scare off bears by yelling or banging pots.
Physical Demands: This trail's relentless elevation change grinds down even strong hikers. Daily gains/losses of 3,000–6,000 feet with a multi-day pack cause cumulative fatigue and joint strain. Conditioning with weighted pack hikes and steep terrain is essential. Knees suffer on long descents; trekking poles highly recommended.
Navigation: Trail is well-marked but snow, fog, and avalanche debris can obscure it. Carry map, compass, and/or GPS. Cell service is nonexistent in backcountry.
Wildfire: Smoke from regional fires can impair visibility and air quality, especially late summer. Check fire restrictions and air quality forecasts before departure.
The Wonderland Trail is a loop with multiple access points, but logistics require planning.
Airports: Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) is closest—85 miles from the Nisqually entrance, about 2 hours by car. Portland International (PDX) is 135 miles south.
Gateway Towns: - Enumclaw (northeast): Largest gateway community, full services, cell coverage, Wi-Fi at library and businesses. - Ashford (Nisqually entrance): Lodging, limited groceries, Whittaker Mountaineering for gear. Free Wi-Fi at Copper Creek Inn and BaseCamp Bar & Grill. - Packwood (southeast): Full services, groceries. - Elbe (west): Small town with basic services.
Trailhead Access: Popular start points include Longmire (paved access, year-round), White River Campground (paved access), and historically Mowich Lake (currently closed due to Fairfax Bridge failure—no vehicle or pedestrian access until further notice). All major trailheads have parking, though lots fill on summer weekends.
Shuttles: No public transit serves the park. Talking Rocks Outdoor Company (253-350-1211) offers private shuttles at $1.11/mile + $29/hour from their Enumclaw office. They can position your car, provide full transportation from Seattle/airport, or shuttle between trailheads. Essential for point-to-point hikes or logistics.
Park Entrance Fees: $30 per vehicle (7 days) or $55 annual pass. Interagency passes accepted.
Road Conditions: Main park roads (to Longmire, Paradise, Sunrise, White River) are paved and well-maintained. Some trailheads require driving gravel roads—high-clearance not typically needed except for remoter access points (which may be closed).
Direction: Clockwise is slightly more popular (fewer steep climbs) but counterclockwise spreads steep sections across descents instead of climbs—easier on lungs, harder on knees. Choose based on your preference for suffering uphill vs. downhill. Either direction works equally well.
Camp Selection: Highly competitive camps include Indian Bar and Summerland on the east side (stunning alpine meadows) and Spray Park (if snow-free). Book these early if you win the lottery. Northern Valley and Golden Lakes camps offer more availability and excellent views. Some camps have water sources up to 1 mile away—plan accordingly.
Packing: Every ounce matters on this trail. Aim for base weight under 15 lbs if possible. Bring trekking poles, quality rain gear, warm layers for freezing nights, and a reliable stove (no fires allowed). Microspikes or light crampons useful for early-season snow patches.
Timing: Start early each day to cross rivers before peak melt and to avoid afternoon thunderstorms on exposed sections. Sunrise views from camps are often superior to daytime conditions.
Trail Magic: Sunrise Visitor Center is accessible mid-trail for some hikers—friends or family can meet you there with fresh food, which is a huge morale boost. Paradise also offers hot meals and restrooms.
Conditioning: Train with weighted pack on steep, uneven terrain. Your knees will thank you. Consider hiking sections of the trail on day hikes before committing to a thru-hike permit.
Flexibility: Weather, river crossings, and physical condition may require itinerary changes. Build in a buffer day if possible, or be prepared to adjust camps with rangers (difficult but sometimes possible).
Photography: Early mornings and late evenings offer the best light on the mountain. Lightweight tripod worthwhile for alpenglow shots. Wildflower peak is typically first two weeks of August.
Leave No Trace: Pack out all trash, use designated privies, and camp only at assigned sites. The park's fragile alpine meadows are easily damaged—stay on trail.
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