The Olympic Coast North is one of Washington's most dramatic wilderness backpacking routes, traversing 32 miles of wild Pacific coastline from Shi Shi Beach to Lake Ozette. This is raw, rugged coastal hiking at its finest: miles of sandy beaches punctuated by rocky headlands, dense tide pools teeming with marine life, towering sea stacks rising from the surf, and old-growth forests backing the shore. Backpackers camp directly on the beach beneath driftwood shelters, time their days around tide charts, and scramble over headlands using ropes and makeshift ladders. This is not a casual beach walk—it's a serious wilderness expedition requiring navigation skills, physical fitness, and comfort with exposure on steep, slippery terrain. The reward is solitude, stunning sunsets over Point of Arches, the constant rhythm of ocean waves, and the feeling of walking the edge of the continent. Best suited for experienced backpackers comfortable with route-finding, tide navigation, and uncertain weather.
Two permits are required for this route. First, obtain an Olympic National Park wilderness permit through Recreation.gov. Reservations for summer season (May 15-October 15) open April 15 at 7:00 AM PDT. Cost is $8 per person per night (free for ages 15 and under) plus a non-refundable $6 reservation fee. Permits must be printed 3 days before your trip start date.
Second, because the Shi Shi Beach trailhead crosses Makah tribal land, you need a Makah Recreation Pass ($20 per calendar year). Purchase in person at the Neah Bay Mini Mart, Marina, or Museum—online sales are not available. Display the pass in your vehicle windshield.
Bear canisters are mandatory on the entire Olympic Coast. Rent one when picking up your permit or bring your own approved model. Group size is limited to 12 people maximum, and affiliated groups must camp at least one mile apart. Campfires on beaches are restricted or banned during dry summer months (typically July-August)—check current conditions before departure. When fires are allowed, they must be 10+ feet from driftwood logs and no larger than 3 feet diameter. No campfires are permitted between Wedding Rocks and Yellow Banks headlands year-round.
Late April through September offers the most reliable weather and lowest tides. May through July is prime time: low daytime tides make headland crossings easier, water sources are flowing reliably, and wildflowers bloom on the coastal bluffs. June typically offers the driest weather with comfortable temperatures in the 55-65°F range.
Spring (April-May) brings excellent tidepooling but can be rainy with temperatures in the 45-55°F range. Summer (July-August) has the warmest, driest weather but more crowds at popular camps like Petroleum Creek and Cape Alava. Campfire restrictions often take effect in July. Fall (September-October) sees fewer hikers, but increasing rain and shorter days require careful timing with tides—you may need headlamps for early morning or late afternoon headland crossings.
Winter and early spring (November-March) are not recommended: heavy rainfall makes the Ozette River crossing dangerous or impossible, violent storms pound the coast, and extremely short daylight hours make tide-dependent navigation risky.
Every major camping area has a small creek flowing to the ocean. Key sources include Petroleum Creek, Willoughby Creek, Seafield Creek, Ozette River, and streams near Wedding Rocks and Cape Alava. Collect water well back from the beach at high tide to avoid saltwater contamination. The water appears tea-colored from tannins leaching from coastal vegetation—this is normal. Filter or boil all water; chemical treatment alone is not recommended for Petroleum Creek.
Water sources remain reliable through September but may dwindle by late summer—you might need to hunt for the best collection point. Never rely on finding water between designated camps.
No resupply is available on trail. The nearest towns are Neah Bay (small grocery, limited selection) and Sekiu (basic supplies only). Port Angeles, about 2.5 hours from Shi Shi Beach, has full supermarkets and outdoor gear shops. Plan to carry all food for the entire trip.
Tide timing is critical and non-negotiable. Several headlands are impassable during high tide and can trap you for 6-12 hours. Study NOAA tide charts for the region and plan to round headlands within 1-2 hours of low tide (ideally when tides are below 3 feet). If tides are wrong, this route can become impassable for days. Carry laminated charts and understand how to read them.
The Ozette River crossing is serious in winter and after heavy rain—it can become chest-deep and dangerously swift. Cross at low tide only. Other coastal creeks are usually easy but log jams can be slippery and hazardous.
Headland crossings require scrambling on wet, moss-covered rocks and climbing steep "trails" using fixed ropes and crude wooden ladders. Some sections feel like rappelling down cliffs. The ropes are sometimes fraying with questionable anchor points. Trekking poles are essential. Multiple hikers report slipping on kelp-covered rocks—expect at least one fall per trip. Basic rock scrambling skills are valuable.
Rolling beach logs are a serious hazard. Logs weighing thousands of pounds can shift suddenly in surf—fatalities have occurred. Never walk or sit directly on logs near the active wave zone. Check marine forecasts for swell predictions.
Weather changes rapidly. Dense fog can roll in within minutes, obscuring navigation markers. Rain is possible any month. Hypothermia risk is real even in summer when temperatures drop and you're wet from crossing creeks or rain. Pack full rain gear and layers.
No cell service exists on this entire route. Carry a satellite communicator or be prepared for true wilderness self-rescue.
From Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, drive 2.5-3 hours (126 miles) to Port Angeles via I-5 North, WA-16 West, WA-3 North, and US-101. Alternatively, take the Seattle-Bainbridge Island ferry (1 hour crossing) for scenic routing that saves some highway time.
From Port Angeles to Shi Shi Beach trailhead: continue on US-101 west for 55 miles to Sappho, then Highway 113 north toward Clallam Bay. Turn onto Highway 112 west and follow it to Neah Bay. In Neah Bay, purchase your Makah Recreation Pass. From Neah Bay, take Hobuck Road southwest about 3 miles to the Shi Shi Beach parking area. The last 2 miles of road can be rough—high clearance is helpful but not required in dry conditions.
Lake Ozette trailhead: from Port Angeles, drive US-101 west past Sappho, turn onto Highway 112 briefly, then take the Ozette Lake Road west for 21 miles to the ranger station and parking area. Large gravel lot with overnight parking allowed. Display your National Park entrance pass ($30 for 7 days).
Shuttle logistics: most hikers park at Ozette and arrange shuttle to Shi Shi, hiking south. Olympic Hiking Co. offers daily 1:30 PM shuttles from Ozette to Shi Shi for approximately $75 per person (book in advance). The Shi Shi trailhead lot is day-use only—overnight parking is available at private lots along the access road ($10 per night).
Bring gaiters or expect sand in everything. Beach hiking is slower than trail miles—budget 1.5-2 mph and plan short days to enjoy tide pools and explore sea stacks at low tide.
Camp selection is an art. The beach moves constantly—tides, storms, and logs shift the landscape daily. Set camp well above the high tide line marked by dried seaweed and debris. Stake tents deeply in sand. Use driftwood windbreaks but never camp directly against logs (they can shift). Petroleum Creek and Cape Alava are most popular but can be crowded in summer. Consider Willoughby Creek or Seafield Creek for more solitude.
Timing matters: start headland crossings early in the day when tides are lowest. Wake at dawn to check the morning tide window. If you're unsure, wait—rushing a dangerous crossing because you're behind schedule is how accidents happen.
Pack your bear canister carefully. You'll be digging it out multiple times per day for snacks and water. Keep it accessible but store it above the high tide line at night (and well away from your tent).
Point of Arches at sunset is one of Washington's most iconic scenes, but you need the right tide. Plan to camp at Petroleum Creek or Shi Shi Beach and time a late afternoon walk to the arches for low tide and golden hour.
Carry a repair kit. The rough terrain is hard on gear—broken pole sections, torn rain flies, and shredded gaiters are common. Duct tape and a lightweight sewing kit are essential.
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