The Trail Between The Lakes (TBTL) is a 28-mile point-to-point trail traversing the wild heart of Sabine National Forest in deep East Texas, connecting Sam Rayburn and Toledo Bend Reservoirs. Built in the 1980s through a partnership between the Golden Triangle Sierra Club and the US Forest Service, this trail offers backpackers a surprisingly remote experience through three distinct ecosystems: Pine Savannah, Bottomland Hardwood Forest, and Beech-Magnolia Canyons. Despite modest elevation gain (1,463 feet over the entire route), the trail earns its "challenging" rating through length, primitive conditions, and potential overgrowth in summer months. Best suited for backpackers seeking solitude in East Texas pine forests who don't mind wet creek crossings and are comfortable with water caching logistics.
No permits required. Dispersed camping is allowed throughout the trail year-round, but during deer hunting season (late September through early January), the US Forest Service Designated Camping policy restricts camping to Lakeview Campground or the four established Hunter Camps (Forest Road 109C at mile 10.9, N. Moore Plantation on FR 152 at mile 15.8, Moore Plantation near FR 114/114D junction at mile 20.5, and Lakeview at the eastern terminus). Standard national forest regulations apply: 14-day camping limit within any 30-day period, camp at least 100 feet from the trail to minimize impact, and pack out all trash. Fire restrictions vary by season and drought conditions—check with Sabine Ranger District (409-625-1940) before your trip as county burn bans can be implemented during dry periods. The trail is hiking-only; mountain bikes, horses, and motorized vehicles prohibited.
Spring (March-May) and fall (October-November) offer ideal conditions with mild temperatures, lower humidity, and spectacular wildflower displays in spring or colorful fall foliage. Winter (December-February) sees the fewest hikers and comfortable daytime temperatures, though occasional hard freezes occur overnight. Summer (June-September) brings oppressive heat and humidity (regularly exceeding 90°F), intense mosquito activity peaking July-August, and aggressive trail overgrowth in the middle sections. East Texas receives maximum rainfall in May, with afternoon thunderstorms common during summer months. Note that hunting season runs late September through January—wear bright colors and expect hunter camps to be occupied on weekends during fall. The trail drains quickly after rain, but Little Creek (mile 23.5) can rise ten feet overnight during heavy storms, though it typically drops to knee-deep within 12 hours.
Water caching is strongly recommended and relatively easy due to multiple road crossings. The US Forest Service advises against drinking trail water even when filtered, citing dissolved heavy metals from historical oil and gas drilling, though it might be acceptable in emergencies. Cache water at road crossings using labeled gallon jugs hidden off-trail—Avenza maps show crossings with mileage markers for planning. The only reliable potable source is the faucet at Lakeview Campground on the eastern terminus. Creek crossings are numerous but water is mostly stagnant and scummy. Little Creek (mile 13.4) and Walnut Creek are the largest crossings; Little Creek rarely exceeds shin-deep except during/after rain, when it can reach knee-deep for 12-24 hours. During droughts, dry crossings are possible. No resupply options exist along the trail. Nearest town is Hemphill (a few miles from trailheads) with basic supplies, but expect limited backpacking-specific gear. Nearest substantial resupply would be Lufkin (40+ miles west) or Shreveport, LA (93 miles northeast).
Five venomous snake species inhabit the forest: Texas coralsnake, eastern copperhead, northern cottonmouth, timber rattlesnake, and western pygmy rattlesnake. Watch carefully in overgrown sections and around creek crossings. Ticks and chiggers are extremely prevalent, especially in overgrown summer growth and around hunter camps—treat clothing with permethrin and check thoroughly each evening. Mosquitoes peak April-October with July-August worst; Asian tiger mosquitoes bite aggressively during daylight hours. The middle section tends toward serious overgrowth in summer, requiring bushwhacking through spider webs and brush. Navigation requires attention in faint sections despite good marking—the trail uses 2"x4" aluminum rectangular blazes mounted 5 feet high (vertical=straight, left-leaning=left turn, double right-leaning=hard right). Black bears occasionally wander from Louisiana but no resident population exists; standard bear awareness is sufficient. Creek crossings, while numerous, are not dangerous except immediately after heavy rain. No significant exposure or lightning-risk ridges.
Western trailhead (Sam Rayburn side): From Lufkin, take Highway 103 east 40 miles, turn right (south) on Highway 96 for 17 miles, look for trailhead sign. Eastern trailhead (Toledo Bend/Lakeview): From Pineland, TX, follow FM 2426 east 10 miles, turn right (south) on Highway 87 for 3 miles, turn left (east) on FM 2928 for 3.5 miles to end of pavement, follow signs to Lakeview approximately 4 miles on gravel roads. Lakeview Campground offers 10 primitive sites ($3/night) with picnic tables, grills, tent pads, central water hydrants, and pit toilets—good for staging overnight before or after hiking. Parking available at both trailheads. No official shuttle service exists, but the Trail Between The Lakes Facebook group facilitates shuttle arrangements between hikers. Nearest airports: Shreveport Regional (SHV) 93 miles, East Texas Regional (GGG) 107 miles, or Houston Bush Intercontinental (IAH) 156 miles. Roads to trailheads are paved or well-maintained gravel; standard clearance vehicles sufficient.
Cache water at multiple road crossings rather than relying on creek water—use screw-top gallon jugs labeled with name and pickup date, hide them well off-road. Westbound (Toledo Bend to Sam Rayburn) is slightly more popular and puts Little Creek crossing earlier when you're less tired. Most backpackers complete the trail in 2-3 days; the four hunter camps provide convenient spacing but fill with hunters during fall season. Camp selection is excellent under the pines on soft duff—look for level spots at least 100 feet from trail and creeks. The trail crosses several forest roads allowing flexible itineraries and bailout options. Join the Facebook group before your hike for current conditions, recent trip reports, and shuttle coordination. Bring permethrin-treated clothing, a head net for bugs in warm months, and gaiters for overgrown sections. The trail sees far fewer hikers than other Texas trails like Lone Star Trail, offering genuine solitude. Despite being mostly flat, the combination of distance, heat/humidity, and primitive conditions makes this more challenging than elevation suggests—don't underestimate it based on the gentle terrain.
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